Thursday 15 November 2007

Tuesday 6th November 2007






Cold again this morning and overcast today contrasting with the sun of yesterday.
In the National Museum in Ljubljana, we read about the Roman Necropolis at Sempeter about 50 km from the campsite. The guidebook suggested that the site might not be open but we decided to try anyway. We arrived to find the ticket office closed and the sign clearly showing that it was closed from November to March. Unlike some of the other sites that we had visited, it had a fence all around it and we took a look through the gate. In the site someone was cutting the grass and I jokingly commented that he might let us in. Sure enough, he came to the gate and asked us if we wanted to see the site. He then took us to meet his colleague (daughter?) who gave us tickets and in we went. The cemetery was found by chance in 1952 and the restored graves were first displayed to the public in 1960. The graves had been covered by the river Savinja and were therefore preserved – other parts of the necropolis were not flooded and were used as a quarry for stone for local buildings. As you can see from the photos, there are some very well preserved and the carving is excellent.
On then to Kamnik. Our guidebook compares Skofja Loka with Kamnik and says that they both lay claim to being the oldest and loveliest settlements in Slovenia. Well, having seen both, I must say that Kamnik wins hands down. The old town is lovely and the jewel in its crown must be the Romanesque chapel on Mali Grad – the castle hill in the centre of the old town. It not only looks incredibly pretty high over the town but also has wonderful views over the town, the countryside and the snow capped mountains beyond. Once again the architecture is fascinating and the tourist information map of the town gives excellent information about all of the sites. The town just had a really nice feel to it and I would be very happy to return one day. There is a campsite (only open May to September) very close to the town, so it would be easy to visit. We bought roasted chestnuts from a street seller and sat in Europe Park to eat them – absolutely gorgeous!
Dinner was escalope of veal with Greek Briam (roasted vegetables) washed down with a bottle of Croatian red wine. Now some people who know me may suspect that I have come on the Odyssey as a very extended wine-tasting tour, but this is not the case. We have had some excellent wines, especially Alsace Riesling but this was the best red wine that we have had to date. The wine is Frankovka 2006, produced by Ilok ('Ilocki podrumi d.d.') and is from the Srijem region. It is a beautifully full-bodied, smooth red and is very drinkable. Unfortunately, I only bought one bottle (limited space in Henrietta) and we have left Croatia but, if you are ever in Croatia, give it a try and send me a bottle!
Photos: Ennii Tomb at Sempeter; Ceiling of Ennii Tomb; Spectatii Tomb, over 8 metres tall; Malid Grad chapel, Kamnik; View from Mali Grad chapel.

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