Bells dominated once again today during the long church services. We thought that this would be a good day to visit some of the monasteries. Driving past Agios Nikolaos and Roussanou, both perched on the top of seemingly inaccessible rock pinnacles, we turned right towards the two active monasteries that Jane and I have not yet visited – Agia Triada and Agios Stefanos. There were many stops to admire the fantastic views of stunning rock formations and the 'monasteries in the air'.
Agia Triada, reached by 130 steps cut into the rock was in use in 1438 but may have been established one hundred years before that. It is one of the smaller monasteries and has a cosy feeling to it. There is a impressive smoke blackened chapel cut into the rock with its walls covered in paintings but the most interesting area was the winch room. Before the steps were cut, the only way to access the monastery was by being hauled up in a large net. The monks turned a large capstan and this pulled up the net attached to the rope. This method was obviously also used to bring up supplies and construction materials. Much of the equipment, including the capstan are still in place.
Most of the monasteries were uninhabited for many years and this was the fate of Agios Stefanos until it was taken over by nuns in 1961. They have completely renovated and modernised the buildings but this does mean that many of the buildings are now off-limits. Another Easter custom was notable in the monastery church – lemon leaves were scattered on the floor. The monasteries are interesting but I must say that it is the views of and views from the monasteries that impress me most.
We relaxed in the afternoon, planning what we were going to do after Meteora and also preparing the evening meal. We had barbecued pork chops that had been marinaded in lemon juice, oil, garlic and herbs. We took our time over the meal and then had a game of Scrabble before walking to the church just after 11 o'clock.
The service had been going on for some time but was building to the climax. People strolled around the square outside the church and we listened to the chanting broadcast over large speakers. And then the congregation spilled out of the church, filling the square and grouping around the lectern where the priest continued the service. Somewhat before the appointed hour of midnight, the priest announced “Christos Anesti” (Christ is risen) and all Hell (an inappropriate word perhaps) broke loose – the church bells rang joyously, firecrackers went off everywhere and the firework display started. It is traditional that the priest lights a candle at this point and then passes the flame around to the whole congregation but they had done this in the church before they came out, probably because they were concerned that the candles would blow out. We lit our candles from other peoples and Simon demonstrated the problems of doing this by putting out six people's candles before succeeding in lighting his! Everyone in the square greeted all of their friends and relations with the traditional greeting 'Kronia Pola' (Many Years).
Photos: Agia Triada; The winch room of Agia Triada; Kristos Anesti and make sure that the candle doesn't blow out!
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