Changing plans again, we decided to spend another night in
Castrojeriz. We were a little more active today with a longer morning walk
around the town and out to the Santa Clara Convent. We had visited another
Santa Clara Convent in Zafra where we bought some biscuits (see 15th
October) but it wasn’t until we chatted with Marion and Derek that we found out
that all Santa Clara Convents in Spain sell cakes and biscuits. Our visit to
the convent had many purposes – an excuse for a way, to see the convent and to
buy cakes. After ringing the bell we had a difficult discussion through a
closed door – the nuns usually take a verbal order and money and produce are
exchanged using a revolving hatch that means that there is no eye contact
between nun and customer. Our nun however realised that this wasn’t going to
work with us so she opened a door and greeted us. We ordered a fruit sponge
cake and a chocolate and almond biscuit. They looked great when we got them and
there was enough to keep us going for many days.
In the afternoon we climbed up to the castle past a large
number of troglodytic houses built into the soft rock of the hill. Many of
these houses are still occupied either as permanent dwellings or holiday homes.
The castle is impressive, built in the 9th and 10th
centuries partly on the foundations of a Roman tower and then enlarged in the
Middle Ages. The weather was good and the views from the hill were excellent –
mountains in the distance and forests of wind turbines on many of the hills.
This was an important area in Roman times and a display panel showed a Roman
road running past Castrojeriz and three Roman villas close to the hill.
Walking back down the hill we visited the church of Our Lady
of the Apple Tree, although it was closed and then returned to the campsite.
Photos: These cave houses are currently being renovated;
Smartly renovated cave houses; Castrojeriz Castle; The Santa Clara Convent
viewed from the castle.
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