Saturday 19 April 2008

Thursday 17th April 2008



At 02:30 we heard the sound of the securing chains being removed from the lorries and the changing sound of the ships engines told us that we were approaching Igounamitsa. Soon the deck was full of the noise of lorry engines and the shouts of the deckhands as they directed the reversing lorries and positioned them to take the ramp down to the deck below and out on to the quay. This was achieved surprisingly quickly and, after a quick glance at Igounamitsa out of Henrietta's window, we were able to settle back to sleep.
We woke to the daylight and opened the shutters to see the mainland drifting past. All of the lorries on the other side had gone and we were able to see islands passing on the other side. It was very hazy and the mountains on the mainland looked as if they were cloaked in smoke.
As we approached the port of Patras we got a rather hazy view of the Rio – Antirio bridge, a marvellous engineering achievement that connects, over the Gulf of Corinth, the north-west tip of the Peloponnese with the south-west tip of Northern Greece. I had no idea that the bridge existed until we were flying back from Athens after a holiday and I looked down at the scenery. I recognised the Gulf of Corinth and saw what I thought was Rio and Antirio but they were joined. Once we got home, the wonders of the Internet allowed me to establish that it was a new bridge that had only just been opened.
We left the port and headed towards Corinth, getting a better view of the Rio – Antirio bridge on the way. We stopped off at Diakopto, parked at the harbour and wandered into the town. Diakopto has a narrow-gauge railway that links it with Kalivrita high up in the mountains behind. Many years ago we had stayed in Kalivrita and had walked down the railway line through the gorge, a recognised footpath. The gorge is beautiful and walking this way gives wonderful views with glimpses of the sea. The walk involves many stretches over bridges and through tunnels and it is important to have the train timetable with you so that you can avoid the trains. The gorge is very narrow in places and the water rushes down below the railway lines and under the bridges. We really enjoyed that walk and we wanted to repeat it, however we found that the line was closed but, in typically Greek fashion, there were no signs to say so and we had to ask. A lady in the waiting room then explained that the line had been closed for one year and was not due to open again until October. Fires had damaged the railway in Spring 2007 but the main problem was that the tunnels had to be widened to accommodate new rolling stock. We found out later that the work should have been completed earlier this month but the deadline had been extended by 6 months – so, it is not only England where railway repairs overrun! We realised that we could catch a bus and still do the walk down the gorge but, when we enquired, we were told that parts were blocked and there was no way around them. I highly recommend the walk to anyone who reads this but leave it until October 2008 or, if they are still working on Greek time, Spring 2009. We will have to return at a later date – any excuse to visit Greece!
After getting supplies for Horiatiki (Greek salad - cucumber, tomatoes, olives and the wonderful feta cheese) and picking up two Spanokopita (spinach pies), we returned to Henrietta for lunch. We headed for a campsite that we had identified just a little further along the coast – Camping Akrata Beach. We knew that we were in Greece as there was a complete absence of signs and it was only when we went well past, turned around and headed back that we spotted some very faded signs. We arrived at the site and were greeted by a man who bid us “welcome” with a broad smile and a handshake. He then said that the site was actually closed but that wasn't a problem because we could stay for free, “Things are simple in Greece”, he explained. So, we drove down to the end of the site and parked with the only other guests, two American ladies in a Dutch motorhome, 4m from the sea with a pebble beach between. The view beyond was the Gulf of Corinth with the mountains of Northern Greece beyond – perfect.
The owner of the campsite had being doing a lot of work over the Winter, building a new café / bar and demolishing and rebuilding the shower block. It looked very professional but was not yet complete, hence the fact that he had not officially opened. He had to be ready next week, before the Easter weekend and they were working all hours to achieve it. They had just connected the electricity today and he was confident that they would have hot water and showers tomorrow.
Photos: Arriving at Patras; The harbour at Diakopto.

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