Wednesday 11 June 2008

Sunday 8th June 2008 - Pella, Greece





We headed north and started to see effects of the overnight storms – mud across the roads and fields bearing the marks of large amounts of running water. We followed signs to the site of Pella's Archontiko, set on a low hill a few kilometres west of the main site of Pella. We went through a village obviously hit by flash floods, our road only just cleared by a JCB and eventually found a sign directing us down a track. We were concerned about the state of the track and Jane checked it out on foot. When she had twice sunk into the mud, we decided to try to find another route on asphalted roads. However, this also had been blocked by flash floods so we gave up and retraced our steps to the main road.
Our main objective was the site of Pella, another Macedonian city. King Archelaos moved the capital of Macedonia from Aigai (Vergina) to here in the late 5th century. When Philip II had united Greece under his control, Pella became the first capital of Greece. The site is massive but only a small proportion has been excavated. Macedonian chamber tombs abound in the area and the centre of the city has a huge agora (meeting and market place). However, Pella is best known for its impressive mosaics from the palatial houses near the agora. The mosaics use pebbles rather than the tesserae (small pieces of stone) typically used by the Romans. As you will see from the pictures, they were able to produce wonderful scenes using the different colours and shades of the pebbles.
After looking round the small museum where some of the mosaics have been relocated, we went across the road to the site itself. Apart from two houses, one of which still has in-situ, covered mosaics there is not a lot to see although the agora is impressive just because of its size of 70,000 square metres.
We wanted to locate a campsite close to Thessalonika as we will be flying back to England from there next week. However, this was not as easy at it seemed. The first site was permanently closed and the second site was little more than a grassy area, having no electricity, no showers and only very basic toilets. At €5 per night, it was cheap but not very secure. We moved on to Ouzouni Beach, a site just above Kassandra, the first of the three prongs that make up Halkidiki. Much further from Thessaloniki than we would have like but there seemed to be little other option. We were treated to yet another thunderstorm in the evening as we looked over the sea from out beach-side pitch.
Photos: Pella – House of Dionysos where many fine mosaics were found; The Lion Hunt pebble mosaic from the House of Dionysos; A beautiful stone table from a Pella house – it would not look out of place in any large modern house; Collapsed columns in a Pella building currently under excavation.

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