Wednesday 11 June 2008

Tuesday 3rd June 2008 – Southern Pelio to Kato Gatzea, Greece




The cost for the night was €19, €1 more than Sikia in Kato Gatzea where the facilities are ten times better – this was daylight robbery! We will not be planning a return visit.
We plotted a route back up the peninsula that took us further in land looking down on all of the olive groves along the coast. The journey took us through pretty villages and past the rusting remains of a steam road roller in Metohion. We stopped on the outskirts of Milies at a bakers that was recommended in the Rough Guide and took ages to decided what to have for lunch – the choices of breads, pies and cakes was huge. In the end we decided to have half of an olive loaf and half of a cheese loaf, both of which were thin (2 cm) and flat and had a texture closer to crumpets than normal bread. Together with eight tiny cakes, this was enough for two meals. We would have happily returned for more lunches to try their tiropitta (cheese pie), spanokopitta (spinach pie), Hortapitta (wild greens pie) and the many interesting cakes, especially the huge round 'milk pie' cut into slices like the savoury pittas.
Milies is an interesting village with many traditional houses but the streets were narrow and we couldn't find anywhere to park, so we continued on the short distance to Vizitsa. This is a smaller village full of traditional Pelio houses and we spent a very pleasant hour wandering around it. The square was especially impressive with two huge plane trees, thought to be nearly 500 years old and reaching up 35m. One of the locals explained to us that early in the 20th century, the square was raised 10m and the base of the trees are still at the original level.
Returning to the main road at Milies, we followed a sign to the terminus of the narrow-gauge railway that we had heard but failed to locate on Sunday. The preserved railway only operates at weekends when steam and diesel locomotives are used. The pictures show it running through beautiful scenery and it would have been good to go on it. It is also possible to walk along the line, enjoying the views at a slower pace. This walk and the many other marked trails in the area are very good reasons for a return visit.
We have a long journey planned tomorrow and want to get an early start in the morning, so we decided to return to Camping Sikia. We explained to the lady in reception where we had been and how poor the campsite was, putting it down to the fact that it had only just opened. She told us that it was just as bad in the hight of the season and many of her guests had told her that the showers and toilets were never cleaned. It was great to be back at a good campsite.
Photos: A traditional house in Vizitsa; Vizitsa square with its massive plane tree; The narrow-gauge railway disappears into the woods below the village of Milies.

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