For all you motorhomers, I must start today's blog with a recommendation for Vrachos Camping in Kastraki. It is an extensive campsite with lots of space and excellent facilities. In the old part of the site there are two large public covered areas with tables and chairs and each one has three double gas burners and a large charcoal barbecue. There is also a refrigerated cabinet for campers to store food. The new section of the campsite has a similar facility next to its sanitary block. Talking of which, these facilities are also very good – plenty of very hot water in the showers and hand basins. The toilets have toilet seats and toilet paper (both unusual in most Greek sites) and you can put toilet paper down the toilet (almost unheard of in Greek campsites). There is a good restaurant on the site and free WiFi is available there. Together with its swimming pool (closed at this time of the year) and, most importantly, its location so close to the monasteries and the centre of Kastraki, it is an excellent site. When we left this site after our last stay three years ago we were presented with a small icon and a substantial book on Ancient Greek theatres. When we left this time I mentioned the icon and said that it had travelled with us in the motorhome ever since. We were then presented with a bag containing another icon (a different one, now also on display in Henrietta), another copy of the Greek theatre book (Simon, we will give you this one), a T-shirt, a postcard and an etching showing the Meteora monasteries. At €18 a day including electricity, this is a very good value site.
After shopping at Lidl in Kalambaka we cut across country on deserted minor roads until we arrived at Pyli south west of Trikala. Here we found the impressive Turkish-style bridge built in 1514 by Saint Vissarion. After a short walk and lunching overlooking the river, we set off to find the church of Porta Panagia (The Virgin of the Gates) that has unique mosaic icons. We found the church and hoped that it was still considered to be winter as the church would re-open at 15:00 but we seemed to be on the summer timetable and didn't want to wait until 16:00. However the church, founded in 1283, was still worth a visit and the architecture was intriguing, made up of a complete mixture of ancient blocks, pieces of masonry from old churches and more modern materials.
Our next stop was the Plastiras Lake, a local beauty spot very popular with the locals. What we hadn't realised was how high the lake located. We wound our way up on steep twisty roads constantly expecting to see the lake around the next bend. When we did finally reach it we followed the western side and found ourselves climbing again as the road took us high above the lake with occasional views across it. The weather was not good and the lake looked dark and cold in the overcast conditions. We reached a belvedere with, the Blue Guide told us, lovely views over the lake but just before we reached it, we drove up into the low cloud and had no view whatsoever! Descending at last to the lakeside at the dam, we were able to drive over it. Despite the Blue Guide stating that it was “cars only”, the limit was 15t and it was obvious that coaches were able to cross. On the opposite side were a row of wooden huts selling all sorts of tourist tat and the local ouzo and fire water. It must be said that the dam and the lake were underwhelming but obviously very popular with the Greeks given the number of tavernas that we saw. I suspect that the Greeks' love of water and the altitude (approx. 850m) make it attractive in the hot summer weather.
Many miles from the nearest campsite, we had decided to wild camp hopefully with a view of the lake and not in the clouds. As we started to travel up the eastern coast of the lake we drove past the small village of Kastania and came to a large flat area of land with enough space for 30 motorhomes. Access was easy and the ground stony so there was no danger of getting stuck. There was no view of the lake but there was a fantastic view down off the mountains onto the plain of Thessaly. A herd of goats and three sheepdogs were our only neighbours. Later a goatherd arrived and gave us a cheery wave as he persuaded two goats to stop sharpening their horns on Henrietta's bumper. Very powerful animals goats, they made the van rock violently! The swirling clouds alternately obscured and revealed the view until darkness fell.
Photos: The bridge at Pyli; Porta Panagia church; Goats on our pitch at Kastania.
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