Tuesday 3rd June 2008 – Southern Pelio to Kato Gatzea, Greece

The cost for the night was €19, €1 more than Sikia in Kato Gatzea where the facilities are ten times better – this was daylight robbery! We will not be planning a return visit.
We plotted a route back up the peninsula that took us further in land looking down on all of the olive groves along the coast. The journey took us through pretty villages and past the rusting remains of a steam road roller in Metohion. We stopped on the outskirts of Milies at a bakers that was recommended in the Rough Guide and took ages to decided what to have for lunch – the choices of breads, pies and cakes was huge. In the end we decided to have half of an olive loaf and half of a cheese loaf, both of which were thin (2 cm) and flat and had a texture closer to crumpets than normal bread. Together with eight tiny cakes, this was enough for two meals. We would have happily returned for more lunches to try their tiropitta (cheese pie), spanokopitta (spinach pie), Hortapitta (wild greens pie) and the many interesting cakes, especially the huge round 'milk pie' cut into slices like the savoury pittas.
Milies is an interesting village with many traditional houses but the streets were narrow and we couldn't find anywhere to park, so we continued on the short distance to Vizitsa. This is a smaller village full of traditional Pelio houses and we spent a very pleasant hour wandering around it. The square was especially impressive with two huge plane trees, thought to be nearly 500 years old and reaching up 35m. One of the locals explained to us that early in the 20th century, the square was raised 10m and the base of the trees are still at the original level.
Returning to the main road at Milies, we followed a sign to the terminus of the narrow-gauge railway that we had heard but failed to locate on Sunday. The preserved railway only operates at weekends when steam and diesel locomotives are used. The pictures show it running through beautiful scenery and it would have been good to go on it. It is also possible to walk along the line, enjoying the views at a slower pace. This walk and the many other marked trails in the area are very good reasons for a return visit.
We have a long journey planned tomorrow and want to get an early start in the morning, so we decided to return to Camping Sikia. We explained to the lady in reception where we had been and how poor the campsite was, putting it down to the fact that it had only just opened. She told us that it was just as bad in the hight of the season and many of her guests had told her that the showers and toilets were never cleaned. It was great to be back at a good campsite.
Photos: A traditional house in Vizitsa; Vizitsa square with its massive plane tree; The narrow-gauge railway disappears into the woods below the village of Milies.

Monday 2nd June 2008 – Southern Pelio, Greece

We wanted to see the southern part of Pelio, so we paid our bill and set off, calling in for supplies at the village of Kala Nera (Good Water?) just south of the campsite. The journey down was very pleasant with the hillsides and coast covered with olive groves. Looking at the thousands and thousands of olive trees and the sparse population, it difficult to understand how they harvest the crop.
The slopes of Mount Pelion, after which the peninsular is named, diminished as we travelled south and the landscape became more rounded. Just beyond Milina we passed a large very pretty bay with a large island across the entrance. Here was Camping Olizon, one of the campsites that we identified as possible stopping places. It looked very pleasant but we decided to move on to investigate more of Pelio. We drove through Trikeri and on to its port, Agia Kiriaki where we parked in a large car park above the bay looking down on the village. There were excellent views to the west where the mainland curls round forming the Pagasitic Gulf with Volos at its head in the north. To the south, Greece's second largest island, Evia, is very close. After having lunch looking at this view we retraced our steps north and then turned east to Plantania. This was a pretty village and the campsite was pleasant but, despite the fact that ACSI had it listed as opening on 1st June, it was closed and the gates padlocked. There was one more campsite further east shown as opening on 1st May, so we headed for that. The road down to Kastri Beach was narrow and the overhanging olive trees brushed the roof and sides of the van as we wound our way down. The gate of the site was open but there was no sign of activity. A faded handwritten sign told to us to enquire at the taverna, which we did and were directed to another building. Here they explained that they had only opened that day and that the site wasn't completely ready. We found another British campervan, the only other customers, and parked in a shady pitch not far from them. Brian and Sue had arrived a few days earlier and were told that the site was closed but they could stay if they wanted. Apparently the site had been quite busy over the weekend with Greek visitors, despite the fact that it was closed. Brian noted that they didn't seem to be doing much work to prepare the site for opening. There was no hot water and the toilets had not been cleaned – 'basic' is the best way to describe the facilities but at least we had electricity. We took a walk to investigate the area but it consisted only of a good beach, small hotel, small taverna and two houses – not a lot to keep us for more than one night.
We invited Brian and Sue over for a drink, moving swiftly into the van when we started to be eaten alive by mosquitoes. We had a very pleasant evening and Brian gave us a map of Romania after hearing that we intended to go there later. They had driven through there earlier in the year and had decided that they were unlikely to return.
Photos: A small bay on the way down to Milina; The beach at Kastri.

Sunday 1st June 2008 – Kato Gatzea, Pelio, Greece

We felt that we should do something energetic this morning before it got to hot, so we took a marked footpath from the local village of Kato Gatzea. On the way to the village, we walked through the Hellas International campsite that is next to our campsite and, although it is quite pleasant, it is certainly not as good as Sikia. The footpath lead us through large olive groves, passed some lovely individual houses to the village of Ano Gatzea. We heard a train of the preserved railway that runs up the hills in this area but did not find the line. After a quick look at the village we retraced our steps and returned to the campsite for lunch. The rest of the day was spent reading and, in Jane's case, swimming – two days running, that is quite a record, the sea must be warm!
There was more Greek music again this evening but a quick visit established that it was the same group, so we decided to listen to them from the comfort of the van.
Photos: A choice of tracks through the olive groves; Sikia campsite and beach – Henrietta is well hidden in the trees, next to the beach on the right of the picture.

Saturday 31st May 2008 – Skopelos to Volos, Greece

Far too early, the radio burst into life to tell us that it was time to get up. The old part of Skopelos Town is on a hill and consists entirely of narrow streets with steps and it is impossible to get down to the promenade without negotiating some steps. We had established a route with the minimum number of steps and pulled the suitcase along the streets trying to make as little noise as possible. We arrived at the ferry dock (it can't be called a terminal as there are no buildings and nothing to indicate that the ferry stops there!) very early and occupied a vacant seat facing the sea. The rather windy weather and subsequently rough seas of the last couple of days had been replaced by a very still day and the sea looked like a mirror – sea sickness pills were definitely not needed. The 'Flying Dolphin', a small hydrofoil, came in, picked up a few passengers and set off for Aghios Constantinos. As it left the harbour, it passed the much larger catamaran of the 'Flying Cat' that was our ferry to Volos. Unlike the traditional ferry coming out, the Flying Cat did not have any outside seating area and the interior looked more like an aeroplane than a ferry. It was however very fast and the journey took only two and a half hours on exactly the same route that the outgoing ferry took four hours and twenty minutes.
We thought about visiting the archaeological museum in Volos but decided that we would rather get back to the campsite. We went in search of the bus station and found one – the wrong one - fortunately the correct one was just across the road. We had nearly an hour and a half until the next bus, so we relaxed over a coffee and spanakopita (spinach and cheese filo pastry pie) before I wandered off to a street market just down the road. I bought olives (from a bewildering selection), courgettes, green beans, cherries and strawberries, all at very reasonable prices.
Like the bus journey on the outward leg, our bus was a very modern and comfortable coach. As with all Greek buses, the front was festooned with prints of icons including one set in a slab of crystal and screwed to the bodywork – it looked just like an optional extra supplied by the coach builders! This was not quite as ornate as the previous bus that had an illuminated icon on the driver's door and a garlic bulb (to ward off the Evil Eye) hanging from the rear view mirror. These icons have a practical use as they allow the driver to safely negotiate mountain roads and pass through gaps with centimetres to spare whilst he holds his mobile phone in one hand. The icons are a great comfort to the passengers for the same reason although it is sometimes better for the faint hearted to sit further back in the bus where they are less aware of the action!
When we arrived back at the campsite, we were greeted with the news that, although they were very busy, there was a pitch available next to the sea for the next two days, just the period that we intended to stay. We moved Henrietta and settled in. It was very warm again and lots of people were on the beach or swimming. Jane decided to go for a swim, reporting that the sea was really warm.
Jane noticed that there was going to be live Greek music in the bar / restaurant in the evening and sure enough at 20:30 we heard the sound of bouzouki. We walked the 30m to the bar and spent a very pleasant couple of hours listening to the group of two bouzouki players with a guitarist. They played a mixture of instrumentals and songs, and I recognised many of them from my Theodorakis and traditional Greek records and CD's but I resisted the temptation to sing along!
Photos: Dawn over the bay of Skopelos Town; The early morning light on Skopelos Town; The Flying Cat arriving at Skopelos Town.

Friday 30th May 2008 – Skopelos, Greece

The air temperature was much lower today, probably about 25°C, which made walking more comfortable. We walked to the other side of the bay to the very small village of Miloi (Greek for mills) where there is a spring and an old watermill. There was no sign of water at the spring today but it has almost certainly been tapped for drinking water and / or irrigation. Near the mill building was a plum tree with delicious tiny plums not much bigger than cherries. We would also have tried some of the black cherries in a tree just a few metres away but the ripe fruit was frustratingly just out of reach.
On our way back, we stopped at an Ouzeri at we entered the main town and here we introduced Norman and Deborah to the Northern Greece drink of Retsina and Coke. Neither of them were impressed, so it was a good job that they were only trying some of ours – we thoroughly enjoyed it! We then moved on to a square just off the seafront for a very cheap and filling Gyro Pita – sliced pork with a selection of extras such as tomato, cucumber, chips, tzatziki and cheese salad, all wrapped in flat bread. It was one of the best gyro that we have had, with plenty of tasty filling.
A relaxing afternoon was followed by a meal in our choice of taverna. We chose the one from the second night with the excellent fried courgette starter. I had my first fried squid of The Odyssey and we shared a very tasty dish of aubergines, peppers and onion topped with crumbled feta and baked in the oven.
Our ferry leaves at 07:15 in the morning and we managed to persuade Norman and Deborah that they didn't need to get up to see us off. So we said our fond farewells and thanked them for looking after us so well. Skopelos is a beautiful island and we would definitely like to return to investigate it more fully. Norman and Deborah had an excellent walking book for the island and there were many walks that we would like to do.
Photos: An old watermill at Miloi; A typical Skopelos Old Town street at night.

Thursday 29th May 2008 – Skopelos, Greece

In the morning we walked along above the coast to the small chapel of Profitas Elias. Hidden amongst the trees on the top of a small hill, this is a very picturesque chapel. Once when Norman and Deborah visited here, they found signs of a recent celebration (a wedding or name day?) with ribbons lying on the ground and in the trees. There was nothing like that this time but it was wonderfully peaceful with the birdsong being the only sound. The walk has lovely views over to Alonisos but today was hot and humid and the resulting haze all but obscured the island.
We walked back by a lower route and into the town, passing another intriguing church, St. Michael Sinadon with even more ancient blocks than Panagia Eleftheriota that we saw yesterday. In addition to the large dressed stones, there was a funeral monument, a number of pieces of carved marble and five sarcophagi. Three of the sarcophagi were incorporated into the front wall of the church together with their stone lids.
Deborah steered us to another of their favourite haunts for lunch. This café specialised in ice creams and we all chose from the extensive list. Whilst Norman chose a rich chocolate ice cream, the rest of us chose ones packed with fruit, in my case fresh strawberries, fresh cherries and pineapple. The sundae glasses were huge and we were all full after we had finished them.
Back at the apartment we relaxed and chatted before preparing for the next meal. The Finikas taverna is over the other side of the bay from the old town, set on rising ground. It was due to open this week but we weren't sure that it would be open tonight. Fortunately, after a pleasant walk along the seafront and up to the taverna, we found it open. Norman and Deborah know the owner and were welcomed as old friends. We selected a large round table and admired the view across the bay to the old town. As the daylight faded, the lights of Skopelos town came on and gave us another view of the town with twinkling lights spread across the hillside. The food was excellent, both the starters and main courses with the highlights being the aubergine salad and the huge rosemary lamb. The walk back seemed to go very quickly, probably due to the extra half litre of wine that the proprietor had given us!
Photos: The chapel of Profitas Elias; One of the most photographed houses in Skopelos Old Town.

Wednesday 28th May 2008 – Skopelos, Greece

Norman and Deborah had plotted a special breakfast for us this morning. We left the apartment just before 10:00 and walked to a small 'kafenion' in the town. Here we had the traditional Skopelos Cream Pie, made with filo pastry, shaped into a long thin roll and then cooked in a spiral, looking for all the world like a curled up snake. The filling was similar to confectioners' custard and it was both delicious and filling, with one pie between two being more than enough. Washed down with Frapé (cold, whipped coffee), it made an excellent and very different breakfast.
None of us felt like a long walk today so we wandered around the town in the morning, returning for a late and light lunch. The afternoon was spent chatting on our balconies before I walked down to the Internet café for a session of email, blog and podcast downloading.
The evening was spent at a taverna at the western end of the seafront and, once again, the food was very good and the portions were generous.
Photos: House in Skopelos Town; The church of Panagia Eleftherotria incorporating many ancient blocks, including a sarcophagus, and with traditional Skopelos ceramic plates.