Wednesday, 7 October 2009

Friday 2nd October 2009 – Briancon, France



After breakfasting on bread brought from one of the local bakeries, we set off for another six or seven hours of driving, hoping to get close to the Italian border.
The scenery gradually became more hilly and then mountains appeared in the distance – the Alps were in view. We had noted aires on our route but were hoping to make it to Briancon just a few miles from the Italian border. We made good time and decided to climb the major pass before Briancon. Henrietta toiled up the steep mountain roads and down again into the Serre Chevalier where there are a succession of ski resorts. This part of the trip was quite spectacular with forested mountain sides topped by barren peaks. The weather was once again excellent and the sun lit up the views.
We tried and failed to find the first two Serre Chevalier aires mentioned in the Camperstop Europe book but found the third at Parking Pontillas next to a closed 'Telecabin' ski lift. The sign suggested that we should pay €8 at the Tourist Information Office and the barrier would be opened by a “telecommand”. Quite how this would work we don't know but we didn't know where the Tourist Information Office was and it certainly wasn't going to be open at 19:00. So we parked outside the barrier close to the motorhome services and hoped that nobody objected.
Photos: The small lake next to Parking Pontillas.

Thursday 1st October 2009 - Digoin, France





Our plan is to get to the Italian border quite quickly whilst still enjoying the journey so we plotted a cross-country route avoiding motorways. The countryside was pretty but not spectacular being mainly flat farmland growing cereals and maize. We stopped for a picnic in a pleasant lay-by far enough off the road to avoid being buffeted by the slipstream of lorries and then set off again. At about 17:30 we arrived at Digoin and an aire listed in our 'All the Aires of France' book (very good – see http://www.vicariousbooks.co.uk/). This turned out to be very popular with many vans there when we arrived and more arriving after us – a total of about 40 by nightfall. Parking and the motorhome services were free, even the electricity, but you would have to be there early to claim one of the four sockets. It was easy to see why the aire was so popular – on the banks of a river, a very short walk into the centre of the attractive town and 200m away from two bakeries.
We walked into the town inspecting the architecture and the church before heading off towards the river. Here we found an aqueduct carrying a canal over the river. It always seems strange to see water being carried over a river!
This is a lovely place to stay for the night and we will definitely visit again if we are in the area.
Photos: The Digoin Aqueduct; water flowing over water.

Wednesday 30th September 2009 – Oissel, France





We have had a lovely September in South West England – lots of sunshine and warm weather – but today dawned dull and overcast. The journey to Dover was the same with light drizzle falling as we navigated the M25. However within 30 minutes of leaving the shores of England, we were in bright sunshine and this continued when we reached France.
We normally avoid motorways except when absolutely necessary but this time decided that we needed to put some kilometres on the clock so we continued on the pay motorway towards Rouen. After 66 km we came to the pay station and paid over £10 for the privilege – another reason for not using pay motorways! The only purpose of motor ways is to cover the distance quickly, you miss all of the interesting sights of a country that way.
Our first stop was Oissel, just outside Rouen, an aire in a lovely, quiet location next to the Seine. There are only two designated motorhome places here but it is out of season and we were the only people there. We were a little concerned about the nearby church as its bells were very loud and rang the four quarters and struck the hour twice about one minute apart. We have heard this before in France and can only assume that it is done for the partially deaf – Did I hear the clock strike ten? Fortunately, the clock stopped striking at 22:00 and didn't start again until 07:00 – unless we just slept through it!
Photos: The aire at Oissel; the Seine just a few metres from the Oissel aire.

European Sojourn October and November 2009








Our planned two month sojourn in the Spring was reduced in duration due to parental health problems. We spent an enjoyable 4 weeks in France but attempted to do too much in too short a time and a lack of Internet Cafés meant that I did not produce a blog. The intervening period has been spent, planning and building a wood-burning oven. I have made my own bread for many years and have always fancied having a wood-fired oven in the garden. It was just a dream until I discovered plans for an oven on the Internet (http://www.fornobravo.com/) and got inspired! I have never laid a brick or mixed cement in my life and when I looked at the plans I decided that it was just too ambitious. Then a friend of mine, Les, took a look and was inspired too. Fortunately he has done a lot of building and offered to help. To cut a long story short, Les and I built it but I had to leave it without the surrounding walls built and without having fired it. I can't wait to use but I am also looking forward to the next adventure.
We are now starting a two month trip down to Sicily, spending two weeks getting there, four weeks on the island and two weeks getting back. At least that is the plan ......
Photos: Placing the keystone in the dome of the wood-fired oven; the final state of the oven just before we left.

Saturday, 16 May 2009

Odyssey statistics and motorhoming budget

I thought that it would be a good idea to include some statistics on the Odyssey and details of our expenditure especially for those who may be thinking of embarking on a similar journey.

Odyssey Statistics

We left Butleigh on 3rd September 2007 returning on 21st October 2008, a total of 415 days – just under 14 months.
We stayed in 175 different locations, a mixture of campsites, camperstops and, very occasionally, wild camping spots. For the uninitiated, camperstops are official overnight stopping places and are either free or charge a small fee. They are very common if France and Germany where they give a wonderful opportunity to investigate beautiful villages, towns and even some cities.
We stayed an average of 2.37 days per stop although this was obviously a mixture of longer and shorter stops. Whenever we found somewhere that we really liked, we stayed a little longer.
We visited a total of 18 countries – England, France, Germany, Czech Republic, Austria, Hungary, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro (in a hired car whilst staying in Dubrovnik, Croatia with friends), Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Slovakia, Poland, Switzerland.
We drove 19,927 miles. This is a question that we were always asked and I never knew the answer! The distance travelled was not important to us, it was what we saw that was of interest. This is almost the same as the annual mileage that I drove in my car whilst I was working.
Henrietta averaged just over 31 miles per gallon for the whole of the trip.
I took approximately 14,000 photographs, 1,000 per month but only because I have a digital camera! Needless to say, only a fraction of those are really good and many were photographs of information boards that allowed me to recall facts when I was writing the blog, sometimes days later.

Odyssey budget

We spent some time working out a budget before we left but, given that we had never done this before, it wasn’t very accurate. We actually spent over the 14 months slightly less than we budgeted to spend over 12 months. This was very good news, especially given that the Sterling exchange rate worsened from less than 70p/€ at the beginning to over 80p/€ at the end. Fuel prices also increased dramatically. On the positive side, we had budgeted for occasional nights in an hotel because we thought that we would need a rest from the confines of the motorhome but neither of us ever felt the need to do this.
Our total expenditure for the trip was £16,250, which includes absolutely everything that we spent whilst we were away but not the cost of the three return flights that we made to the UK. It obviously does not include home expenses such as utility bills, community charge etc.
Here is our average weekly expenditure split into different categories:-
Camping £71.50
Fuel (diesel and gas), tolls and public transport £64
Food and Groceries (including beer and wine consumed in Henrietta) £52.50
Eating and drinking out £45.50
Admission fees £15
Other (covers a multitude of sins – washing machines, Internet, presents, cards, spending money when visiting friends & family, guidebooks, reading books etc. etc.) £27
If you were trying to do a similar trip on a smaller budget, the ‘other’ expenditure could certainly be reduced but the biggest avoidable expenditure is definitely ‘eating and drinking out’. We wanted to sample the cuisine and the wine and beer of the different countries but, even when food and drink is cheap, it is surprising how quickly the costs mount up. We were certainly not excessive, eating in the majority of the time but our expenditure in this area came close to the costs of our ‘food and groceries’. We spent most nights in campsites but spending more nights in camperstops or wild camping (where legal / practical) would certainly reduce the costs.

If you do get the opportunity to go on a trip like ours, grab it with both hands and have a great time!

Monday, 27 October 2008

Tuesday 21st October 2008 - Home


The rain overnight and in the morning was telling us that it was time to go home. Less than an hour’s drive got us to the Eurotunnel Terminal and we had time to visit their shop to buy some Czech and English beer. The journey through the Channel Tunnel was as smooth and efficient as ever and after 45 minutes we were driving off the Shuttle. We left France in the rain and arrived in Dover in sunshine. The journey home was accomplished in lovely weather with excellent views, although the British motorways are so much busier than the French roads! One of the highlights was driving past Stonehenge. The higher seating position in Henrietta gave an even better view of that iconic site than we normally get but I do wish that they would get on and improve the visitor facilities. Stonehenge is one of the most important archaeological sites in Europe and the visitor facilities are awful. How good it would be to have a proper visitors’ centre that explained Stonehenge and put it into the context of a landscape covered in archaeological features. End of rant!
We parked Henrietta at the home of our great friends Ann and Nick and hadn’t even walked out of their drive before we were greeted by friends. The walk to the house was interrupted by cars stopping to welcome us back. It is great to be home!
Photos: Henrietta on Le Shuttle.

Monday 20th October 2008 – Montreuil, France



We had identified a large Leclerc hypermarket on the edge of St.Valery-en-Caux and headed there to do some last minute shopping before we left for England. We loaded up with cassoulet, brie, camembert, more wine and other wonderful French goodies.
It was a lovely drive in the morning along quiet country roads with the sun shining brightly. However the sky clouded over during the afternoon as we approached Montreuil. We have used the campsite at Montreuil before and believe that it is one of the better sites close to the Channel ports. The site is surrounded by the outer walls of the town, the main part of which stands, impressively defended on the steep hill behind. We parked up beside the remains of one of the towers on the wall and admired the view over the river and the ruins of a number of watermills. After some rearrangement of the motorhome lockers to accommodate the shopping, I went for a walk along the river and then across fields, up the hill to the town. I admired the defensive walls and huge ditch for some distance before I managed to find a way through them and into the town. On a clear day there are superb views from the walls and the town itself is very pleasant. I walked through the town and out of one of the main gates, finding a route into the campsite and discovering that it actually climbs on terraces to within a few metres of the upper walls.
Photos: The river at Montreuil – the campsite is just the other side of the wood on the right; Montreuil’s defences.