We are close to the archaeological site of Ostia Antica and, if the weather had been better, we would have visited the site with Simon and Katie. However, the sun was shining today and we were determined to see it before we left.
We were not disappointed. After Jane had done the washing and hung it on an improvised washing line, we caught the bus and Metro to Ostia Antica and arrived just after 11:00. We left just before 18:00 when we were thrown out because the site was closing. We probably saw 60 – 70% of the site!
Ostia Antica was the Roman port of Rome at the mouth of the Tiber and was established some time between the 7th and 4th centuries BC. Archaeologists are still discussing when it was founded as ancient written sources suggest a date as early as the second half of the 7th century but the earliest remains found so far date to the 4th century. However what is not in doubt is that the town grew as Rome grew, becoming large, important and wealthy. The decline of the port started in the 5th century due to the Barbarian attacks and it was eventually covered in river silt up to 2nd floor level. This helped to protect it although it was still used as a source of building material. In the 11th century, both the Duomo of Orvietto (not to my taste) and the beautiful buildings in the Pizza Dei Miracoli in Pisa were built in marble taken from Ostia Antica. I don't remember this being mentioned in their guide books and I didn't realise that I was looking at second-hand (pre-owned, pre-loved etc.) buildings. Reclamation yards are not new!
The ruins are very extensive with our Fodor's Italy book suggesting that we would need two to three hours to see it. We spent just under seven hours there and there was enough left to see to fill another four hours. We bought a guide book and this was essential in order to find our way around the site. However, unlike the Forum in Rome, most of the principal buildings had very good information boards in Italian and English and even the less important buildings were named and had simple descriptions. This was very useful for finding our way as it is very easy to get lost in the maze of streets. Buildings were often preserved to their second floors and baths (of which there were a huge number scattered all over the town) to 10m or more. Staircases were intact and sometimes these had been made into viewing platforms allowing an excellent view over the site. I wish that this was done more often at archaeological sites in England (and elsewhere) – a viewing platform would allow a jumble of ruins to be put into context enabling one to see how one building related to another.
Another very impressive aspect of the site was the number of mosaics and frescoes. The mosaic were almost all black and white and, although many were covered, there were still a huge number on view, especially in the less-visited areas. There were also many areas where painted plaster and frescoes clung to walls but these were generally in very poor condition having being left exposed or poorly protected for many years. There were exceptions to this and those in the Thermopolium (shop selling food and hot drinks) and the Terme Dei Sette Sapentine (baths) were impressive.
I would recommend this site to anyone with even a vague interest in archaeology and anyone who is keen should allow plenty of time for the visit! Make sure that you have a map of the site so that you may wander at will, otherwise you will waste lots of time trying to find the major sights.
We came across a number of 2nd and 3rd century AD Mithraeums as we went around the site. Mithras was a cult god imported from the East and was identified with the sun. The cult was for men only and secretive, involving initiation rites and the Mithraeums were hidden away inside existing buildings. The cult rooms were long, thin and dark to resemble a cave and there were paintings of the signs of the Zodiac and figures representing light and darkness. Cult followers would lay on the side benches whilst the procession to the altar made its way down the centre. Eighteen Mithraeums have been found so far at Ostia Antica but some historians suggest that there were as many as forty. Interestingly, Mithras was born on 25th December, venerated on Sundays and the rites included baptism and confirmation. The cult of Mithras died out when Christianity was adopted as the official Roman religion in the 4th century.
Photos: A view from the Ostia Antica theatre with the Temple of Cerere in the Forum della Corporazioni. On the right is a glimpse of the densely packed buildings typical of much of the site; 'Mithraeum of the Baths' with a statue of Mithras sacrificing a bull; Jane serving at the Thermopolium; One of the exquisite mosaics in the 'Caseggiato di Bacco e Arianna'.
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