Saturday 3rd May 2008

The choice of buses into Githio is quite limited at this time of year with two before 08:30 and then nothing until 13:20. Coming back is also strange with the only bus after midday being 18:45. We decided to have a relaxing morning (more blog writing) and catch the 13:20, which gave us plenty of time to investigate Githio and find an Internet café before catching the bus back.
We were convinced that we had missed the bus but it finally arrived 15 minutes late and we soon arrived in the centre. We have been to Gythio twice before and really like it. It is a relatively small working port and although it has tourists it is not primarily a tourist resort. Everywhere along the front, octopuses hang on lines drying in the sun and charcoal-grilled octopus is served with ouzo at the ouzeries in the main square. When we first came to Githio over 15 years ago, there were a number of ouzeries but we could only find one this time and it looked much smarter than when we first saw it.
We walked along the front before diving into the back streets up the hill that showed little evidence of the 'prettification' evident in other seaside towns – this was a relatively poor area. We came across an open church and took a look in. It was very pretty inside and had been decorated with flowers ready for a wedding. As we looked closer, we saw well over 200 gifts of sugared almonds in a large tray and more in flowered decorated baskets. This is a traditional gift at Greek weddings but there were also a similar number of gift boxes ready to be filled. Greek weddings must be even more expensive than English ones judging by the number of guests that they were expecting!
Coming down to the sea at the far end of the town, we arrived at small island on Marathonisi, now joined by a short causeway to the mainland. It was here in antiquity when the island was called Kranai that Paris spent his first night of passion with Helen before leaving for Troy. This is now the fishing port with many small fishing boats moored and a small boatyard just beyond the pretty chapel. In previous visits to Gythio we always saw large numbers of fish, something that kept a very young Simon occupied and, to be honest, his parents as well. When we were up above the the island in the back streets, Jane had spotted a shoal of large fish circling in the deep waters and as we walked along the causeway we saw many fish of all sizes. It looked as if the fishing boats had no need to go out – they only needed to fish from the island!
It was time for that ouzo and we returned to the square to the 'Mezeaopoleio', which I assume means that it serves meze (little dishes of food) with the drinks. It is probably just rose-tinted spectacles but I am sure that the ouzo measures were smaller and that we had more than four small pieces of (delicious) octopus between us last time. It was certainly more expensive, although at €2 (£1.60) each, I wasn't really complaining.
We found out that there was an Internet Café very near the bus station so we went in search. On the way, Jane spotted a large brown tourist sign on a gate - 'Site of the Sanctuary of Zeus Kappota' – we decided to investigate. Beyond the gate was an short, narrow alleyway between two high buildings and at the end of the alleyway was the solid stone cliff of the hill. That was it! It followed on from the theme of the non-existent sites near Sapounakeika but this was exceptional – it was an empty alley! It was obviously where the sanctuary used to be but why they went to the trouble and expense of signing it, I have no idea.
We managed to catch up on a few emails and post some of the blog before returning on the bus to yet another barbecue.
Photos: Swallow on a wire – there were swallows all around us chattering loudly and building nests in the shower block; Octopus drying on the line outside the Mezeaopoleio; Marathonisi island; Gythio and its fishing boats.