We really liked Kavala last time that we came – it is a real working town and port, not a tourist resort. We caught a bus for the short ride into the centre and discovered that it was market day. We wandered through the market without buying anything and then visited the archaeological museum next door. I was surprised to find that the entrance fee was only €2 but we soon discovered why. Jane was stopped by the museum guard from going through a large door into the another section of the building. She then explained that that part was closed, in fact it was all closed apart from the one room and a short corridor that we had already looked at. There were no signs at the entrance to the museum or on any of the interior doors to explain that parts were closed – you were just supposed to know! They are, like many other museums in Greece, arranging a new display and 80% of the museum was closed until the end of the year. Who knows how long it had already been closed for – these things seem to take years. The museum used to house the fantastic finds from Vergina but these were moved to the site itself many years ago. Perhaps they have been rearranging the displays ever since?
It was in Kavala many years ago that Jane first noticed that the locals drank the Greek wine retsina mixed with Coke and so, for old times sake, we found a small café opposite the bus station and had gyro pittas washed down with that lovely 'cocktail'.
We walked up the hill to the castle via the Imaret, allegedly the largest Islamic public building in Europe. Built in the 18th century when Greece was under Turkish occupation, it was a hostel for Islamic theological students, with space for 300 of them. When we were here last, much of it was sadly neglected, although part has been refurbished as a bar restaurant, but now it is a very impressive hotel. A huge amount of money must have been invested in the latest, high quality refurbishment with new roofs for all of the domes and the walls cleaned and restored so that they looked new. I resisted the temptation to ask how much a room at the hotel would cost, but it wouldn't have been cheap!
The Imaret was endowed by the Pasha of Egypt, Mehmet Ali and we next walked further up the hill to his birthplace. With a large bronze of Mehmet Ali on horseback in the square in front, his luxurious Islamic house has been preserved and is normally open to the public but was firmly closed when we were there. In fact, two men were stealing the carpets or perhaps they were just taking them to be cleaned. Anyway, it was an impressive building from the outside and, with luck, it and the museum will be fully open when we next return.
We walked on up to the castle, which is also being restored (with EU contribution, of course) and there were excellent views across the old town, sea and the spread of the modern town.
We returned to the campsite to find the beach and pool absolutely heaving, Jane found it difficult to claim a tiny area to put her towel when she went for a swim. Being such a good beach and so close to Kavala, it is used by many locals and t had calmed down by early evening when they had all gone home.
We had techno music coming from the nearby bar during the afternoon but when we went for a stroll before going to bed, we couldn't see any sign of the promised disco and DJs. We came to the conclusion that they had been there during the day rather than the evening.
Photos: A terracotta bust of a woman from the site of Amphipolis, still showing the original paint; The Imaret as seen through the entrance of the new hotel; The Aqueduct of Kamares.
No comments:
Post a Comment