Saturday 26th June 2010 – Talybont on Usk

Given the recent good weather and the excellent forecast for the weekend, the campsite office was displaying a ‘campsite full’ sign and the field had motorhomes, caravans and tents all around the field. Having said that, there was still a huge amount of space in the centre of the field.
Our son Simon and partner Katie arrived just before lunch time and pitched their tent on our very generous pitch. We had planned a couple of longish walks over the weekend but my condition meant that we had to compromise. The canal provided a simple, level and stile-free walk and in the afternoon we set off at a very slow pace in southerly direction past the two pubs and along the towpath. After about a mile I had to turn back and left the others to walk on.
In the evening we went to the closest pub, The Star Inn, that advertised real ales and an award from CAMRA . We ordered food and were warned that the wait would be at least an hour and, although it was nearly an hour and a half, we didn’t really notice as we were too busy catching up on the news. The food was good when it arrived and the real ales (a good selection) were excellent.
Photos: Jane and Katie by the canal at the edge of the village – the stone building opposite is a massive set of limekilns and here a long tramway from the Brecons beyond brought quarried limestone in trucks like the one in the foreground; A canal boat enters the very low Ashford Tunnel south of Talybont.

Friday 25th June 2010 – Talybont on Usk

Wonderful sunny weather again so we decided to walk the Henry Vaughan Trail that we had seen detailed on an information board on the canal towpath. The trail took us alongside the canal to the end of the village where we crossed over the canal and headed across fields. Along the walks there were posts with pull-out boards that had a few lines of Vaughan’s poetry. Some were a little obscure but others were enjoyable:
‘Here fountains flow,
Birds sing, beasts feed, fish leap,
And th’earth stands fast.’
That poem was by a fast-flowing stream that was making its way down to the River Usk.
After walking past a group of ponies with many foals we came to a tall stone stile and this is when disaster struck. I went over first and slipped on the small stone steps on the far side. Falling backwards, totally out of control, I hit the top of a wall very hard. The left side of my back hit the top edge of the wall and I fell to the ground in considerable pain. It took me a few minutes before I could get up but I decided that the best option was to keep moving and continued the walk. Fortunately, there were very few stiles, it was not a long distance and in amongst the pain, it was a pleasant walk.
Back at the van I applied a pack of frozen sweetcorn (we didn’t have enough peas!) to the back and we had sweetcorn with the evening meal! The motorhome has a fixed bed and its height meant that I had to climb onto it and then crawl across it on all fours. Then came the problem of trying to lie down and whilst Jane was very sympathetic she couldn’t help laughing at my clumsy attempts and many curses. I then discovered how difficult it is to sleep with cracked ribs!
Photos: The White Hart stands next to the muddy-coloured canal in Talybont; The frozen sweetcorn in position – having got into this position, it was very difficult to get out of it!

Thursday 24th June 2010 – Talybont on Usk

We packed up and set off for Brecon and some shopping. Buying good bread and meat has been difficult in the remote areas of Wales but Brecon has good shops with real bakers and butchers.
We arrived at Talybont on Usk and pitched again at Talybont Farm in time to watch Wimbledon. And I confess that we watched it all afternoon and evening, including the unbelievable 70 to 68 game win in the 5th set for Isner over Mahut. Almost as unbelievable was Murray's straight sets over Nieminen, without a single worrying moment, perhaps it was because he was playing in front of the Queen. We also watched that football match. Overall, a very good day for British sport.
Photos: The large main field of the Talybont Farm campsite.

Wednesday 23rd June 2010 - Aberbran

It has to be done if you are a walker and visiting the Brecon Beacons – conquering the highest peak in South Wales – Pen y Fan. I had originally planned to approach the peak from the south, starting the circular walk from the Neuadd Reservoirs. This is supposed to be the best option giving wonderful views from the ridges that it follows. However it is more demanding than the route from the Storey Arms and given Jane's dislike of steep hills and the forecast for a hot day, I decided to opt for the shorter walk as described in the Best Walks in Southern Wales book.
We had driven to the Storey Arms car park and were ready to go by just after 09:00. This is very unusual for us but we were determined to avoid walking up the peak in the heat of the day. It was very misty when we woke up but the sun has dispersed it all by the time that we started.
The walk took us a short way down the main road to the next car park. A note for motorhome owners – it is better to park in the Storey Arms car park as that is open and busy and would be difficult for anyone to break into the van without being noticed. The lower car park has excellent picnic facilities but is surrounded by trees and dark, ideal for thieves and there are lots of signs warning people not to leave valuables in their cars.
After crossing a stream, we started the long climb with the flat-topped Corn Du (The Black Horn) in the distance, passing a National Trust plaque that told us that in 1965 the Eagle Star Insurance Company gave 8,150 acres of the Brecon Beacons to the National Trust in order to ensure that they would be open for public access. Well done those leaders of Eagle Star! Frequent stops were taken – only to admire the views of course – before we arrived at the ridge to see wonderful views down the Taf Fechan valley and its four reservoirs – Upper and Lower Nueadd, Pentwyn and Pontsticill. It was strange to think that I was cycling in the valley just one week ago.
We walked below Corn Du and on to Pen y Fan, reaching its cairn at 886 metres. The views from hear were spectacular, north over the lower land, the River Usk and Brecon. Into the Brecons, paths hugged the ridges, all winding their way to Pen y Fan (Hill of the Top). We walked around the summit for some time looking at the views before we descended and crossed the col to Corn Du (873 metres). This path was being improved and consolidated by the National Trust using a pre-Roman technique. Flat stones are packed upright in a shallow ditch and the gaps filled by soil and small stones. The result is a very stable and hard-wearing surface that will last for many years but it is not the most comfortable surface to walk on. The work is necessary because the hundreds of thousands of people who walk the paths every year cause huge erosion problems and the new paths should prevent damage to the moorland. More views were admired from the top of Corn Du and I had to tell one young Welsh woman that she hadn't “made it!” - she thought that she had just reached the top of Pen y Fan rather than Corn Du. Still I was able to say that the last bit was easy and tell her about a better route down.
The next short part of the walk clearly demonstrated the effect of erosion. The path ran close to the edge of a ridge and the eroded path attracted run-off water that further deepened the trench. This made it very difficult to walk and, like many others, we walked to one side of the path, causing further damage. We arrived at the Tommy Jones Memorial marking the place in 1900 where the body of a five year old boy was found. Tommy became disorientated whilst walking to his grandfather's house and died of exposure after walking at least 3 km and climbing over 400 metres. His body was found some 29 days later and a monument was erected paid for by public subscription. We cut across the open moor until we came to the well-used path back to the Storey Arms.
We got back to the campsite in time to watch Wimbledon and view that amazing match that was halted due to bad light at 59 games all in the 5th set. An heroic performance by Mahut and Isner and it is not over yet.
Photos: Soldiers, complete with guns, leaving the Storey Arms car park perhaps on the 'Fan Dance' – the gruelling SAS training hike where they cross the Pen y Fan peak twice; Life on the Edge – at Corn Du; A view from Corn Du over the glacial pond of Cwm-llwch above which, on the ridge is the small Tommy Jones Memorial; To Be A Pilgrim – Jane with the flat top of Corn Du in the distance.

Tuesday 22nd June 2010 - Aberbran

Looking at the map, I discovered that this area is relatively flat – a cycling opportunity!
Jane wanted to have a quiet day so this fitted well with my plans. I had spotted a Roman Fort nearby and we had thought about walking to it but this was an obvious target for cycling.
On the way at Aberycir I deviated to take a look at the church, built on the site of an ancient Celtic church indicated by the tell-tale circular churchyard. It is a lovely plain church and was made more interesting by the church history provided for visitors. The visitors book was especially interesting with entries made by a number of Italian prisoners of war in 1942, apparently accompanied by members of the Women's Land Army (W.L.A) who also signed the book.
Behind the church is a Norman Motte and Bailey castle but I couldn't see it from the church and, as it is on private land, I wasn't able to visit it.
I cycled on over the River Ysgir and took an unmarked road down to Y Gaer Farm and the Y Gaer Roman Fort. This is actually on the opposite bank of the river from the Motte and Bailey castle but trees obscure the view between them. The Normans obviously considered the area to be important because of the previous Roman occupation and put up their own castle to stamp their authority. I asked directions from a group of walkers in the farmyard and they seemed quite knowledgeable. I asked if they knew whether there had been any recent excavations and they said that they were just about to start – they were archaeologists! It turned out that the site must be an important one as the defensive banks were very clear and there are extant stretches of Roman wall. Three of the four gates have been excavated, the fourth being under the farm buildings. I understood from the archaeologists that fields around the fort show signs of considerable occupation. I would love to know more about the site but CADW have not provided any information boards – I will have to check it on the Internet.
The timing was excellent – back to Henrietta for lunch and Wimbledon.
Photos: The church of St. Cynidr and St. Mary at Aberyscir; The visitors' book with the Italian POW signatures; One of the gates at Y Gaer Roman Fort showing the Roman road.

Monday 21st June 2010 - Aberbran

Back to Wales.
We reversed our journey of last Thursday as far as Brecon where we stopped to have a look at the town. The Welsh name of the town is Aberhonddu, named after the small river Honddu that together with the River Tarell joins the much larger River Usk here.
The very useful Town Guide provided by the Town Council allowed us to plot a route. We started by walking out from the centre and along the aptly named Castle Street, crossing the Honddu River in the shadow of the impressive castle ruins. Built within 25 years of the Norman Conquest the castle was never taken by force but it was partially demolished during the Civil War. A large Regency house was built in part of the castle and the grounds and this has now become the Castle of Brecon Hotel. Another part is Ely Tower, the residence of the Bishop.
We walked up hill to reach the Cathedral church of St. John the Evangelist, built in the 13th and 14th centuries on the site of and using some of the fabric of a Benedictine Priory church constructed in the late 11th century. The priory is thought to have been preceded by an early Celtic church. The church is very interesting and there is also a very attractive cathedral close that incorporates some of the earlier priory.
We continued down into the centre and along by the river admiring the views of the Brecon Beacons. Brecon is very pretty and the town centre is vibrant with many small shops. It must be a nice place to live and it is certainly worth a visit.
We drove west along the A40, turning off to the hamlet of Aberbran where there are three campsites within a few hundred metres – two farm sites at Aber-Bran Fawr Farm and Aberbran Fach Farm and the Aberbran Caravan Club Site. We chose Aberbran Fach because the facilities looked slightly better, although if you are happy not to have a shower block, the Caravan Club Site (members only) at £8 per night (half what we paid) is excellent value.
Photos: The beautifully decorated Norman font in Brecon Cathedral; The Cresset Stone – in Mediaeval times the holes were filled with oil or candles and lit to provide light in those many dark corners, especially useful when they were attending their first service of the day at 2am!; On town trails we are always looking out for those blue plaques but I have never seen one like this before – I am sure that it wasn't there when I was last in Brecon in 2020.

Sunday 20th June 2010 – Ross on Wye

The Sunday walk has to be a shorter one so that people have time to drive home. We walked from Ross to Hole in the Wall along the banks of the Wye. This time there were very professional looking young scullers rowing double sculls with great precision. We thought that there was going to be a race but didn't have time to wait and see.
The walk was really nice but Hole in the Wall was a disappointment – there were plenty of walls but we couldn't find any holes. The ladies were particularly disappointed because there was no café. It was a centre for PGL Adventure Holidays and canoes were lined up on the banks ready for one of their activities.
We headed away from the river past fields of wheat and barley and back into Ross. A late lunch was taken at the Riverside pub before the group split up and headed home, except for us who headed for our motorhome.
Photos: Detritus on the morning after the match before – obviously one fan was upset about England's performance; There were huge fields of barley – just think how much beer this could produce!; The Wye near Hole in the Wall; Poppies and BAGS.

Saturday 19th June 2010 – Ross on Wye

The Saturday walk of the BAGS Packed weekend is always the long one and today was 9 miles starting at Goodrich Castle. After walking through Goodrich village, we were soon ascending the long ridge of Coppet Hill. The view from the folly at the northern end were lovely. We were able to see west to the Black Mountains in Wales and north to the Malvern Hills in England. The path descended through varied woodland until we emerged to find the majestic Wye flowing past. We picnicked on the banks and watched many canoes going down stream. John engaged the crews in conversation, berating those who weren't paddling fast enough, knowing that he was on the bank and safely out of reach!
The Wye in this area meanders, producing large loops and after walking for about 2 miles alongside the river we turned away from it to cut off one of these loops. We found the river again opposite the the village of Kerne Bridge where there is a canoe centre, no doubt the source of many of the canoes that had passed us. Joining the road at the actual Kerne Bridge we passed the remains of the Augustinian Flanesford Priory and soon arrived back at Goodrich Castle.
John and Peg had booked The White Lion just over the Wye from Ross. This gave us a short walk along by the river before crossing the bridge to arrive at the pub set on the banks. The Wye is very broad at this point and shallow due to the lack of rain over the last two months. Many swans were swimming and feeding in the current, producing a lovely sight in the evening light. We had a drink sat in the garden, watching the river flow pass before moving in for dinner. Again, we had our own room but this time it was called The Gaol. The windows were barred and it was once apparently used as a gaol although, being on the first floor and having many windows, it didn't fit the stereotype of a dank, dismal dungeon. Once again the food was very good and the real ale was excellent.
Photos: The unusual organ in Goodrich Church; The BAGS walking; Some of the many canoes on the Wye.

Friday 18th June 2010 – Ross on Wye

We travelled to the Old Station car park just up river from Tintern Abbey, arriving just before 11:00. Here we met most of the BAGS for the BAGS Packed Friday walk. John and Peg had organised the weekend and John was our leader for this walk.
We started in Wales but soon crossed over the River Wye and into England. The route took us over a small part of the massive Offa's Dyke the 8th century bank and ditch that had banks up to 20 feet high and 60 feet wide. By the end we had descended to the Wye and walked south along its banks to It was a very pleasant walk although I must confess that I was often distracted by conversations as I had more than six weeks of news to catch up on!
Whilst the others booked into their B&Bs, we returned to the campsite and prepared for an early meeting for dinner. John and Peg had booked for dinner at the Man of Ross pub in Wye Street but they had phoned a few weeks ago to ask us to have the meal much earlier at 18:30. This was due to a certain football match being played that night – they knew that they were going to be very busy and wanted to get our meal out of the way before the match started. The meal was good and the company, now increased to the full complement of 16, was excellent.
That was more than could be said about the football. We had our own room in the pub complete with a television and were therefore able to watch the whole match – and wished that we hadn't!
Photos: One of a number of wooden sculptures in the Old Station car park; The old Tintern Station and café; The BAGS Packed with Bags Stacked.

Thursday 17th June 2010 – Ross on Wye

After a relaxed start, we packed up and headed for Ross on Wye. So, our Welsh Sojourn is a sham, a lie, because Ross on Wye is in England. However I promise that we will return to Wales soon.
Our village walking group, affectionately known as the BAGS, holds a annual walking weekend, 'BAGS Packed', and this year it is at Ross on Wye. The rest of the group are arriving tomorrow and are staying in B&Bs in the town but coming at the end of our trip, we are staying in Henrietta at a campsite just a few minutes walk from the centre.
Apart from filling up with LPG, we didn't stop on the way, creeping over the International Border and arrived at Broadmeadow Caravan and Camping Park just before one o'clock. It is an unusual entrance to a campsite, down the side of a Morrison supermarket and through a scruffy coach operator's yard and garage. However it is an impressive 5-star campsite with all the facilities and its own lake (or large pond). The pitches are manicured – come to think of it, everything is manicured – and the list of rules is long. It is not the type of site that we normally stay at and at £19.75 per night it is expensive. Having said that the staff are very pleasant, the site is very comfortable and it is extremely convenient for visiting Ross on Wye.
Using a town trail provided by the campsite we explored the town until we decided it was time to get back to barbecue the kebabs made from Welsh Spring Lamb – delicious.
Photos: Ross on Wye's Market House built about 1650; There are many interesting shops in the town centre; Red sandstone almshouses.

Wednesday 16th June 2010 – Talybont on Usk

We have walked more on this holiday than we ever have but I was aware that my bike had been on the back of the motorhome for six weeks without being used. In my defence, many of the areas that we had stayed in were very hilly and I am certainly not a mountain cyclist. However I had noticed that National Cycling Route 8 goes through Talybont on Usk and gave me the opportunity to visit three reservoirs and view the Brecon Beacons. The weather was lovely, blue skies, not too hot and with a light breeze, so there was no excuse. After cleaning the bike, I set off through the village, over the canal following signs to Talybont Reservoir and joined Route 8 after a few hundred metres.
Crossing over the dam of the reservoir I came to the course of the old Brecon to Merthyr Tydfil railway that was closed in 1964. This is now a bridleway and forms part of the cycle route. The surface not asphalted but is in reasonable condition without too many potholes. The fact that the cycle route followed the railway line was one of the reasons that I chose to cycle it – the gradient couldn't be too great. However, the line ascends steadily alongside the reservoir and beyond for a total of 5 miles before it reaches the pass. Most of the track is wooded on both sides but there are occasional breaks that allow lovely views over the Talybont Reservoir and the surrounding hills of the Brecon Beacons.
At the pass, the track reached a minor road and Route 8 joined, travelling down a steep hill until deviating onto another stone track. At this point I stopped to investigate the tunnel through which the railway used to run. The Torpantau Tunnel at 1313 feet (400 metre) was the highest mainline railway tunnel in Britain but I found the railway trackbed leading to the tunnel flooded. A spring was flowing directly onto the line but it was possible to approach the tunnel along the bank. As I arrived, a school party, well equipped with overalls, hard hats and torches. This is a very popular area for walking, adventure holidays and training. I had already past a Youth Hostel and two outdoor adventure centres and I would pass another two later in the ride. At the Talybont Reservoir a group of servicemen carrying huge packs were starting on a hike and two youth groups were crossing the road close to the tunnel. On the way back from the tunnel I past a serviceman being briefed “In order to complete your mission you need to lead your men through this tunnel. No torches are available ........”. This reminded me of the leadership training that I have received although I never quite understood the benefit of attempting to get barrels of oil over barriers when my job was in Information Technology. Running over the Mendip Hills didn't do much for me either physically or in my job. Still, this guy was at least in the military and it was therefore more relevant.
The cycle route descended to a small waterfall where it joined a minor road that took me to two more reservoirs – Pentwyn and Pontsticill. I noticed that my old map showed these as a single reservoir and this is understandable as the Pentwyn overflows directly into the Pontsticill and there is only a narrow bridge between them. I crossed over this bridge and found the line of the preserved Brecon Mountain Railway. I had heard the whistles of the steam locos on the journey down from the pass but there were no trains on view whilst I was there.
I returned to the head of the Pentwyn reservoir and took a small road north of it until I came to a lovely tea shop. Here I had a refreshing pot of tea and a large piece of chocolate cake before I rode on to the Owl's Grove car park and picnic area where I had lunch.
The road from here is very steep and I have to confess that I walked rather than cycled on much of this stretch. This took me back to the pass where I rejoined the old railway track. Then the glorious 5 miles descent to Talybont Reservoir during which I didn't have to peddle once – heaven! All those views without any effort – I am thinking of joining the 'Down Hill Only Club'. I arrived back after a wonderful 20 mile cycle ride and sat and relaxed in the sun by Henrietta.
I really needed to get some blog posted and Wifi has been so difficult to find on this trip. This meant that we had little option but to return to the pub for another pint of excellent real ale. In truth, the café at the local shop also has WiFi but, after the bike ride, I felt that I deserved a pint.
On the way back we met a man with bandaged feet hobbling towards the shower block. It turned out that he was a sailor on intensive leadership training. He had been doing this for a few days and had many more to go. And yes, he did go through the tunnel without torches and the packs weighed 80 lbs!
Photos: Talybont Reservoir; The peak of Waen-rydd and hamlet of Abercynafon; The Torpantau Tunnel.

Tuesday 15th June 2010 – Talybont on Usk

We wanted to stay at Talybont on Usk and had been recommended a site by one of our fellow campers at Rosebush. We stopped at the Brecon Beacons Mountain Centre near Libanus just off the A470. There was plenty of information and lovely views over the Brecons, including the highest peak of Pen y Fan. There are also walks from the centre over relatively flat land giving people more opportunity to admire the views.
Talybont Farm is in the centre of the small village and we booked in before pitching at the edge of a large field. Two other small fields are dedicated to the many groups that stay such as schools and Duke of Edinburgh Award groups. Electric hook-up and water are provided at the pitch but the single toilet and shower are a long walk away at the farmhouse. This will all change in August (hopefully) when the new shower block, currently being built, will be ready. This will provide much better toilet, shower and washing up facilities. Being self contained in our motorhome, the Spartan facilities are not a problem.
We set off to investigate the village and found the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal just 50 metres from the farm entrance. This is a very short canal with no connections to other canals but is very popular for canal boat hire as the views are lovely. We found a lifting bridge that takes a minor road over the canal and it has to be lifted every time that a canal boat needs to pass. A boat was approaching but they had to wait for 45 minutes as a sign on the bridge said that it shouldn't be lifted between 15:30 and 16:30. The village school is on the other side of the bridge from the village and the road probably sees more traffic during the morning and afternoon school rush than the whole of the remaining day.
The village has an impressive well-stocked local shop that is also a post office and café. More importantly, there are two pubs within a very short walk of the campsite. The closest pub, The Star Inn, has a CAMRA award and therefore serves good real ales. We went for an early pint and discovered that they also had free WiFi – what an excellent pub. I walked back to get the laptop and we were able to catch up on emails.
Photos: The peaks of Pen y Fan and Corn Du as seen from the Brecon Beacons Mountain Centre near Libanus; The incredibly narrow buildings next to the canal bank in Tallybont on Usk; Waiting to use the lifting bridge.

Monday 14th June 2010 - Dan-yr-Ogof

Despite the threatening-looking weather, we decided to take a walk down the valley. We took a footpath from the Craig-y-nos Country Park that soon had us climbing up the side of the valley to a large mothballed limestone quarry. Next to the quarry is a South West Wales Caving Club building and in a disused part of the quarry, now part of Ogof Ffynnon Ddu Nature Park, is the entrance to the deepest cave system in Britain known in Welsh as 'The Cave of the Black Spring'.
A railway used to service the quarry and the trackbed provided an excellent, easy footpath towards our goal of the Henrhyd Waterfall. We followed the railway for some time until we were able to join another footpath that took us to another Nature Park that had a trail leading to the falls. The Nant Llech valley is very steep and we were told on one of the combined bench and audio information points that is is like a Welsh tropical forest. This is apparently because the deep, dark valley forces the trees to grow quickly towards the light resulting in thin trees and a canopy above. It didn't feel especially tropical when we were there although there were lots of biting flies around.
The path took us to the bottom of the valley and then back up to the impressive waterfall, the highest in South Wales. We then followed the path down the valley, often high above the stream that was spilling over a series of mini waterfalls. We reached the ruins of a small waterwheel and soon left the valley to start the return leg up the Tawe valley. This route took us close to the river, high on a cliff overlooking the Tawe and then back to Craig-y-nos and the campsite.
This is an excellent walk with a huge variety of scenery – thoroughly recommended.
Photos: Wern Quarry – there are three potholes and two caves in this photograph; Nant Llech valley – one of the talking benches; Henrhyd Waterfall.

Sunday 13th June 2010 - Dan-yr-Ogof

We looked closely at the weather forecast and decided that we should be able to get a short walk in before the rain arrived. It was apparent that all of the walkers in tents nearby had also checked the forecast as they were up and away very early, obviously trying to get their section of the Brecons Way completed as early as possible.
We walked down through the Craig-y-nos Country Park spending more time walking through the grounds. The ground floor of the castle can also be visited and we took a quick look. The castle specialises in weddings and guests were gathering as the bride and groom, married yesterday, prepared to leave in the well decorated car. The castle was a wreck when it was bought by the current owners who have subsequently spent a fortune on it. The roof was repaired in 2005 and there are still derelict parts, especially the upper floor and the basement.
We arrived back before the rain and watched the rather disappointing Queens Club tennis final on the television. The rain arrived and it is was heavy. We saw a number of walkers arriving back absolutely drenched – the hot showers were very busy!
Photos: Canada Geese; A cuddly dragon sits on the roof of a pavilion in the castle grounds; The castle seen across one of the pleasure garden ponds.

Saturday 12th June 2010 - Dan-yr-Ogof

Dan-yr-Ogof Caves are rather commercialised and, given that we have visited lots of caves around Europe, we decided not visit them. It has to be said that the huge plastic dinosaurs and the £13 per person ticket prices also put us off.
Just across the road from Dan-yr-Ogof is the Craig-y-nos Country Park, consisting largely of the pleasure gardens created by Adelina Patti, a world famous opera singer who lived in Craig-y-nos castle for over 40 years. She took over an existing house in 1878 and turned it into a mock castle built in pink sandstone. She was somewhat eccentric but the result look very good and the pleasure gardens with its streams and ponds are a delight.
It was the parting of the ways when we got to the Information Centre by the castle. Jane meandered back to the campsite whilst I took the footpath up the side of the valley. Reaching the Open Access Land the scenery changed to moorland with underlying peat and lots of damp areas. The OS map showed lots of 'Shake Holes' and these soon became apparent. The landscape was littered with holes of all different sizes caused by collapses in the limestone. I have seen these and swallow holes (where a stream runs into the hole – there are some of these here as well) before but never on this scale. There were so many that I often had to zigzag to find a route around them. There is a theory that the small shake holes on the Mendip Hills in Somerset were given ritual significance by the prehistoric people. They built enigmatic circular closures, the Priddy Circles, in the area that are thought to be of ritual use. If this is correct, then this area of Wales must have been hugely important to them.
Limestone outcrops appear everywhere with large blocks scattered across the surface. It is easy to see why there are so many quarries and small pits in the area. Some of the small depressions have become ponds, full of life with dragonflies and many beautiful, iridescent damsel flies. The views were fantastic in every direction and I chose a particularly good viewpoint to sit for my lunch. It was so peaceful, the only sound being two competing skylarks.
On the way back towards the campsite I stumbled across two potholes. There are many in this area, some are part of the same system that makes up the 10 miles of the Dan-yr-Ogof cave system.
Photos: The Shake Hole with the ritual enclosure in its depths; One of the ponds on the moor; Damsel Flies during a rare stationary moment; A rocky limestone scene.

Friday 11th June 2010 - Dan-yr-Ogof

This site is not ideal for walking so we decided to move on to the site at the Dan-yr-Ogof Caves. This was only a short journey but it did take us across some interesting moorland scenery. Our route took us close to Usk Reservoir, so we decided to take a short diversion to the car park near the dam. Walking over the dam we took a short walk along the shore before taking a track into the forest to find a standing stone and cairn shown on the OS map. They were rather disappointing, the cairn being very small as was the Old Red Sandstone standing stone, but the view was good. The area around has lots of evidence of Roman occupation – Roman roads, camps and fortlets – but we didn't want a long walk today.
The road moor road turned into a valley road as we passed the source of the River Tawe higher up in the hills. The stream ran beside the road and we found a lay-by to park in so that we could take a closer look. We walked down the banks passed a couple of small waterfalls before we came to a point where we could jump across without getting our feet wet. Climbing up the hill we came to a pretty series of waterfalls on the Nant y Llyn stream and we then walked over to an interesting stone circle, standing stone and stone avenues. The stone circle was in a rather boggy area and I was reminded that there is a theory that the Celts believed that these places were between this world and the underworld.
We found an excellent pitch at the very tidy Dan-yr-Ogof campsite. Electric hook-up, fresh water and waste water drainage is available on every pitch – we are not used to such luxury! The view from our pitch is tremendous – steep hills on either side of the valley and south beyond the valley to the next hills.
Photos: One of the Nant y Llyn waterfalls; The boggy setting of the stone circle.

Thursday 10th June 2010 - Llanddeusant

It was a heavy sky that greeted us in the morning, not ideal for viewing Red Kites but that is what we had planned. The BBC forecast said that the weather would improve in the afternoon and the feeding took place at 15:00 so we had high hopes. However in remained dull and overcast although it didn't actually rain for which we were grateful.
We walked 100 metres down the road to the hides and found at least another 20 people there. The Kites had been gathering for some time, apparently they are more likely to do this in poor weather but when it is warm and the skies are clear, they prefer to stay up in the thermals and come for the food much later. The warden arrived with the meat and through it over a fenced-off area about 15 metres from the hides. Very soon the Kites came closer and started to dive down into the field snatching a piece of meat without landing or only spending a few seconds on the ground. They wheeled around in a most athletic way and often attempted to pinch the food from any bird that had successfully picked up some meat. It was very impressive to watch but the dull weather made photography difficult.
An opportunistic buzzard decided to join in and it was interesting to see the different technique. The buzzard landed and spent about ten minutes on the ground stuffing itself with meat. The Red Kites were a little upset about this and occasionally tried to dive bomb the buzzard but, although it watched the attacks, it didn't move.
Photos: Throwing the meat; The Red Kites.