It has to be done if you are a walker and visiting the Brecon Beacons – conquering the highest peak in South Wales – Pen y Fan. I had originally planned to approach the peak from the south, starting the circular walk from the Neuadd Reservoirs. This is supposed to be the best option giving wonderful views from the ridges that it follows. However it is more demanding than the route from the Storey Arms and given Jane's dislike of steep hills and the forecast for a hot day, I decided to opt for the shorter walk as described in the Best Walks in Southern Wales book.
We had driven to the Storey Arms car park and were ready to go by just after 09:00. This is very unusual for us but we were determined to avoid walking up the peak in the heat of the day. It was very misty when we woke up but the sun has dispersed it all by the time that we started.
The walk took us a short way down the main road to the next car park. A note for motorhome owners – it is better to park in the Storey Arms car park as that is open and busy and would be difficult for anyone to break into the van without being noticed. The lower car park has excellent picnic facilities but is surrounded by trees and dark, ideal for thieves and there are lots of signs warning people not to leave valuables in their cars.
After crossing a stream, we started the long climb with the flat-topped Corn Du (The Black Horn) in the distance, passing a National Trust plaque that told us that in 1965 the Eagle Star Insurance Company gave 8,150 acres of the Brecon Beacons to the National Trust in order to ensure that they would be open for public access. Well done those leaders of Eagle Star! Frequent stops were taken – only to admire the views of course – before we arrived at the ridge to see wonderful views down the Taf Fechan valley and its four reservoirs – Upper and Lower Nueadd, Pentwyn and Pontsticill. It was strange to think that I was cycling in the valley just one week ago.
We walked below Corn Du and on to Pen y Fan, reaching its cairn at 886 metres. The views from hear were spectacular, north over the lower land, the River Usk and Brecon. Into the Brecons, paths hugged the ridges, all winding their way to Pen y Fan (Hill of the Top). We walked around the summit for some time looking at the views before we descended and crossed the col to Corn Du (873 metres). This path was being improved and consolidated by the National Trust using a pre-Roman technique. Flat stones are packed upright in a shallow ditch and the gaps filled by soil and small stones. The result is a very stable and hard-wearing surface that will last for many years but it is not the most comfortable surface to walk on. The work is necessary because the hundreds of thousands of people who walk the paths every year cause huge erosion problems and the new paths should prevent damage to the moorland. More views were admired from the top of Corn Du and I had to tell one young Welsh woman that she hadn't “made it!” - she thought that she had just reached the top of Pen y Fan rather than Corn Du. Still I was able to say that the last bit was easy and tell her about a better route down.
The next short part of the walk clearly demonstrated the effect of erosion. The path ran close to the edge of a ridge and the eroded path attracted run-off water that further deepened the trench. This made it very difficult to walk and, like many others, we walked to one side of the path, causing further damage. We arrived at the Tommy Jones Memorial marking the place in 1900 where the body of a five year old boy was found. Tommy became disorientated whilst walking to his grandfather's house and died of exposure after walking at least 3 km and climbing over 400 metres. His body was found some 29 days later and a monument was erected paid for by public subscription. We cut across the open moor until we came to the well-used path back to the Storey Arms.
We got back to the campsite in time to watch Wimbledon and view that amazing match that was halted due to bad light at 59 games all in the 5th set. An heroic performance by Mahut and Isner and it is not over yet.
Photos: Soldiers, complete with guns, leaving the Storey Arms car park perhaps on the 'Fan Dance' – the gruelling SAS training hike where they cross the Pen y Fan peak twice; Life on the Edge – at Corn Du; A view from Corn Du over the glacial pond of Cwm-llwch above which, on the ridge is the small Tommy Jones Memorial; To Be A Pilgrim – Jane with the flat top of Corn Du in the distance.
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