Saturday 7th May 2011 – Kineta, Greece

We had a good start this morning anticipating a long period hunting for Eleusis. It was the first time that we had approached Elefsina from this direction and shortly after passing under the motorway and heading toward the town centre we were rewarded by our first sign to Eleusis. This was followed by more signs and we were soon parked outside the site. It was remarkably easy and we wondered why we had so much trouble before. Part of the issue was that the guidebooks often describe the site as being surrounded by oil refineries and cement factories. It is true that the view from the site is horrible and includes these but it is actually within the town and we had always envisaged it as being well outside.
Eleusis was a very important cult centre, occupied from at least as early as the 15th century BC and initially a rival to Athens before coming under Athenian rule in the early 6th century BC. The Sacred Way lead from Athens to Eleusis, a distance of 19km (12 miles), and during the nine-day festival of Greater Eleusinia a procession came from Athens to the Sanctuary of Demeter at Eleusis. Only those initiated into the Eleusian Mysteries were allowed to take part in the procession and to witness the rituals that took place in the sanctuary. The number of initiates obviously grew over the centuries as the sanctuary was rebuilt and enlarged many times including one extension that involved building over ancient walls many metres high. The Mysteries were secret and the penalty for revealing them was death and this might explain why we still don't know much about them. However Demeter was connected with the seasons, fertility and crops and it is probable that these themes were prominent in the ceremonies.
The Mysteries were celebrated well into the Roman period and at least three Roman Emperors are known to have been initiates. Indeed the Romans remodelled and enlarged much of the site adding many fountains and baths. It is largely the Roman remains that are visible today although more ancient walls and features are also visible.
We spent three hours walking around the site, reading the information plaques, looking at the remains and trying to imagine what the initiates observed during the ceremonies. It is suggested that after fasting, they ate fermented cereals that may have an effect similar to LSD, so they may have seen some very interesting sights!
Travelling West along the old national road we arrived at Kineta and Glaros Camping where we took a pitch close to the sea.
Photos: The sacred area on the sanctuary at Eleusis – the stone seats at the back are for the initiates to watch the Mysteries; Part of a 5th century BC white plate from Eleusis; A Roman votive piglet from Eleusis.