Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Friday 28th September 2012 – Attichy, Northern France


Despite the fact that the store doesn't open until 08:00, the muzak is switched on at 07:00 when the staff start to arrive. I have thought that the staff may have demanded that the music is played all of the time that they are at work but, given that they can't be that mad, I have decided that they switch it on when they arrive to make sure that they don't forget later. Anyway we wake up to the gentle, if inane, background muzak and switch on BBC Radio 4 (Long Wave) to drown it out.
After breakfasting on lovely, buttery croissant, we topped up the water tank and set off. As always, we try to avoid motorways and major roads, preferring the excellent and deserted minor roads. This journey did not disappoint. There had been rain overnight but we were blessed with sunshine and excellent visibility as we travelled through lovely countryside and pretty villages. This area saw a great deal of fighting and death during the First World War and the fields and villages are littered with war cemeteries. We found a British War Cemetery at Ecoivres and stopped to take a look. There were many graves of Portland stone marking the graves of Commonwealth soldiers (British, Canadian, Australian and South African) but the cemetery was originally used by the French and many stone crosses marked their graves. There were also four graves of German soldiers but we were unable to find them.
A little further on we saw a sign to a Chinese and Indian War Cemetery at Ayette and were intrigued as we hadn't even seen Chinese or Indian WWI graves. The Indians were labourers, drivers or in the Central Indian Horse but the Chinese were all in the Chinese Labour Corps. The surprising thing about the Chinese graves were that most of them died after the war had ended, mostly in 1919 and one as late as September. Why all so late? I have made a mental note to investigate further when I have access to the Internet. The inscriptions on the graves were also most unusual - “A good reputation endures for ever”, “Faithful unto death”, “A noble duty bravely done”.
We got distracted on the way and changed our plans on a number of occasions. Looking at the map we spotted the Clairiere de l'Armistice just off our intended route and decided to pay it a visit. It was here that the armistice was signed at the 11th hour on the 11th day of November 1918 in a railway carriage to end World War I and where Hitler insisted that France signed their surrender, in the same railway carriage, in 1940. We visited the museum here and saw an identical railway carriage fitted with the original furniture from 1918 – the original carriage displayed in Berlin was destroyed on Hitler's orders at the end of WWII because he wanted to prevent it from being used by the Allies for Germany's surrender. The museum has many souvenirs of WWI and an incredible collection of stereoscopic images of the war. Well worth the €5 entry fee.
It was only a short drive to Attichy to the aire, a car park outside the swimming pool, next to a very pretty lake. A lovely position for the night.
Photos: Two Chinese graves in the Ayette Cemetery – note the dates; View over the lake at the Attichy aire.


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