Monday 2nd November 2009 – Marsala, Sicily, Italy

Onward, ever onward but only a short journey today.
Anyone who knows me will understand my interest in quarries. Having worked for 26 years in the quarrying industry (OK, only in IT), I learned a lot about the business and the practicalities. Seeing foreign quarries always fascinates me or horrifies me in the case of many countries. Today I managed to combined two interests, quarrying and archaeology. We visited the 'Cava di Cusa' from where they quarried the stone to build Selinus.
The quarry, just outside Campobello di Mazara, is well worth a visit even if you are not interested in quarries. The last half a kilometre of the road was beautifully paved in stone and it was totally bone-shaking in the motorhome. After apologies to Henrietta we set off into the quarry, a shallow cut through a small ridge of very good quality tufa. There was evidence of extraction of stone blocks but it got really interesting further in. Sections of columns lay on the ground but there were also columns in the process of being excavated. The rock face was rounded and then a curved trench was created from the top surface eventually creating a column still attached to the bedrock at the bottom. Large levers were then inserted at the top causing the pillar to break away from the bedrock at the bottom. Unless of course there was a flaw in the stone. There was evidence in the quarry of areas that had been abandoned due to weaknesses in the stone and extracted columns were left after they had broken. The massive column sections and stone blocks had to be transported over 11 kilometres to Selinus and I am not sure how this was done but it must have been a considerable undertaking.
After another bone-shaking journey to the road, we drove on to Marsala past its port (the largest in Sicily). We had been told that by the people at Punto Braccetto that there was an aire in Marsala but they didn't know where it was. The owner at Marinella di Selinunte said that there wasn't one but I identified an open area on the seafront using the sat nav and set that as a destination. When we arrived there we found a free car park with parking places for campers and camper services (water and dumping). For those who wish to use the aire, it can be found on the Via Beo, the main seafront road, just north of Piazza Piemonte E Lombardo.
We parked up and set off on foot for the Archaeological Museum, which the guide book said closed at 13:30. When we got there it turned out that the hours had been extended to 15:00, which gave us plenty of time. The main draw was the Punic warship dating back to the 3rd century BC. Discovered by a fisherman who found old wood in his nets, the wreck was investigated by a British marine archaeologist Honor Frost who happened to be in the area. She then spent the next 13 years, recording, lifting and conserving the wreck and it is now exhibited in a special room in the museum together with many pithoi (large, long, thin pottery vessels) found around the wreck and the surrounding area. The rest of the museum was interesting but lacking in English explanations.
We spent the rest of the day wandering around the streets of Marsala, discovering Punic and Greco-Roman cemeteries and reading information boards set up by the Tourist Information Office at the city's interesting sites. We finished off with a visit to one of the Marsala wine shops. Here we were treated to a very extensive tasting session not only trying the famous sweet Marsala wine but also Marsala with almonds, Marsala with egg, dry Marsala and some lovely, fragrant desert wines made on the nearby Egadi islands. Although the Favignana desert wine was delicious, it was very expensive and we weren't sure when we would drink it, so we chose the our favourite Marsala, the dry. We have an Englishman, John Woodhouse, to thank for Marsala. He visited Marsala in 1770 and, realising that if the wine was fortified with alcohol it would travel well, started exporting it to Britain. Many other Englishmen followed him and fortunes were made in the business. There is no English involvement with the industry now, unlike the Port industry in Portugal.
Photos: Cava di Cusa – a column excavation, just started; Two columns ready to be extracted; A view in the Cava di Cusa quarry; The Punic warship.

Sunday 1st November 2009 - Marinella di Selinunte, Sicily, Italy

We had been warned by the guide book that Agrigento was a large site and involved a lot of walking but Selinunte, ancient Selinus, is much larger. A fifteen minute walk took us to the site and we were greeted at the entrance by a fleet of electric golf buggies with detachable trailers. You could pay to be taken on a tour and then left to explore the far reaches of the site but we wanted to walk. The temples close to the entrance are the most impressive part of the site with Temple E having the most extant remains. It is common practice to identify temples by a letter if the dedication is unknown. That said, Temple E is thought to have been dedicated to Hera (Aphrodite) and is very impressive, measuring 70m by 25m with many of the columns and parts of the cella still in place. Temple F was however our favourite. A complete mess of columns and masonry, it must look much as it did directly after the earthquake that destroyed it long after the city had been abandoned. This is Sicily's second biggest temple, only beaten by the Temple of Olympian Zeus in Akragas (Agrigento) and this is how that temple would have looked like before it was used as a quarry. It was fascinating climbing over the remains with massive columns, Doric capitals, architrave and huge stone blocks. The columns separated into their constituent parts looking like a backbone and giving a whole new view on the problem of slipped discs!
We then took a long walk to the Agora (ancient market place) where there were signs of recent excavations. Only a fraction of the site has been excavated and the work will continue for many generations but everywhere that we walked there was a huge amount of ancient pottery scattered on the ground. We continued walking to the extreme western end of the site, across a small stream to Malophoros and a sacred area devoted to Zeus Meilichios. There was a fascinating collection of small temples and altars and we ate our lunch in one of the temples, not seeing another soul for nearly an hour. The walk from the eastern temples provided excellent views of flora and fauna – we saw an eagle, kestrels and other birds of prey, a flock of goldfinches, dragonflies, butterflies, a weird-looking giant grasshopper and lizards galore. I even managed to pick some blackberries but the flavour was not as good as those at home. Down by the river a multitude of SBBs (Small Brown Birds) flitted in and out of the tall reeds and bamboo.
We walked back to the Acropolis overlooking the sea and close to the ancient harbour (now buried). This was the high-status part of the city with more temples, posh houses and shop-lined streets. It was here that we met an American who complained that there weren't enough extant ruins and “did we know of any more?”. I thought of suggesting that she could re-erect some but decided against it.
Jane got the prize for spotting the first snake of the trip – a medium-sized (any size is too big for Jane) black number that was sunning itself on a fallen column. It was as scared as Jane so it took off quickly, as did Jane. There were wonderful views east and west from the Acropolis and it was easy to see why the site had been chosen. Not only is the land fertile but there are also natural deposits of salt and sulphur, both much sought after in ancient times.
We left the site and walked down to the sea and the town of Marinella di Selinute, sitting and enjoying the view of the harbour. On the way back, the campsite owner stopped and offered us a lift but we were now in walking mode and politely declined.
Photos: Selinus – Temple F's giant columns; Slipped discs in Temple F; Can anyone identify this bug?; The campsite accepted all types of campervan.

Saturday 31st October 2009 – Marinella di Selinunte, Sicily, Italy

The plan today was for only a short journey, so we had time for a gentle start. First a very short walk from the campsite took us to an excellent bakers with a lovely display of many different loaves and rolls. We chose a horseshoe-shaped loaf and a hexagonal loaf that consisted of seven rolls joined together. I couldn't resist buying something for lunch – made like a swiss-roll with a white bread made with olive oil, it had black olives and smoked ham placed on the dough before it was rolled up. It was delicious and certainly something I will make when I get home. Then we visited the fruit and vegetable stall directly opposite the campsite. It is very well stocked with a huge variety of high-quality produce at very reasonable prices.
An hour on the campsite Internet allowed us to catch up on emails and post the blog. This was our first opportunity since we arrived in Sicily, so there was a lot to do.
A short drive took us down small roads off the main SS115 to the coast and Eraclea Minoa. The town was founded in the 6th century BC and was named Minoa after King Minos of Crete who allegedly chased Daedalus from Crete to Sicily and establish a settlement here where he landed. Although there is not a huge amount of extant ruins, the site is worth a visit just for its position. Of all of the cities that we have visited so far, this one was obviously founded by someone who appreciated lovely views. Houses built here would sell for a fortune!
The entrance fee of €2 reflected the fact that the site was small and that the museum under refurbishment (I suspect it had been for many years) was reduced to a single small room with very few exhibits. For most of our visit we were the only people on the site, outnumbered by the staff by a factor of four. They were all chatting at the entrance whilst we rambled over the site, admiring the views. The small Greek theatre was lovely. Made of sandstone and now protected from the elements by a large roof, it was very weathered due to its position and the soft sandstone structure but it was good to see one that had not been over-restored and used for performances. The view from the seats must have been stunning. Below the theatre is a high-status house, part of which has walls over 1.5m high with painted and patterned plaster still visible. There are also mosaics although most of these are covered and we could only see glimpses of the others. We followed the line of the defensive walls up to the acropolis where there are the scant remains of a temple and the presence of a World War II pill box reminded us of the strategic nature of the position.
One interesting aspect of the site was the use of stone blocks that consisted largely or sometimes entirely of crystals. In one case a block of crystals seemed to had been placed in a prominent position in a room of a house in front of the theatre.
This part of Sicily is covered with important archaeological sites, being a very fertile area with other natural resources and therefore attractive to settlers. So we were off to yet another site, this time at Selinute. We tried one campsite on the opposite side of the river to the site but it was closed, so we backtracked to find Camping Athena at Marinella di Selinunte, actually much more convenient for the site. The campsite is basic with small concrete pitches but the welcome was warm.
Photos: A lovely display of bread at the San Leone bakery; A man takes a break from harvesting olives to give me a wave – better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick!; One of the blocks of crystals at Eraclea Minoa; Jane strides up to the Eraclea Minoa acropolis with the inland view in the background.

Friday 30th October 2009 - Agrigento, Sicily, Italy

After yesterday's visit to the best known mosaics in the Roman world, today we are going to visit probably the best collection of Greek temples in the world. The day started warm and sunny and it was positively hot sat in the direct sun over breakfast. Ideal weather for exploring the large site.
Akragas (Agrigentum to the Romans) was established in 582 BC and was named after the river next to it, the Akragas meaning 'rich in crabs' in Greek. It was chosen for its defensive position, bordered by two rivers that merge before the nearby coast and protected by two hills. It was ruled by a series of tyrants and soon became very wealthy, stating its power by the construction of a massive, 12 km long defensive wall that surrounded the city and included a long ridge to the south. This ridge is now known as 'Collina dei Templi' ('Hill of the Temples').
Catching the bus from outside the campsite we got off at the car park on the road that splits the site in two. We started at the western end, which the guidebook explained was the quietest part mainly because the temples are less complete. The first temple that we came to was a temple to Olympian Zeus, built in the 5th century BC and the largest Doric temple in the western Greek world, occupying an area slightly less than a football field and with foundations 6 metres deep. The temple lies in ruins with what remains of the columns and stone blocks lying in huge heaps. This is due to a combination of damage in ancient times, including enemy attacks and earthquakes and the inevitable use of the site as a quarry. In the middle ages it was know as 'cava gigantum' ('giant quarry') but most of the remains were removed for use in the construction of Port Empedode in the middle of the 18th century. The temple was over 30 metres tall and many 'Telamons', giant human figures helped to support the roof. The Telamons were 7.6 metres tall and are thought to have been placed at a height of 13 metres between the full height pillars, although there is much speculation around their exact position. One complete Telamon still exists in the museum and a cast copy has been left on the site where it was found – a very impressive sight. In front of the temple is its altar where the simultaneous sacrifice of 100 bulls was carried out.
The next site was the late 5th century BC 'Temple dei Dioscuri' (the Dioscuri being Castor and Pollux) with its well-meaning but misguided reconstruction of a few pillars. This was done in 1832 by assembling a random collection of bits that were lying around, all of different ages and architectural styles. This temple was built in an area that was a large and important centre for the cult of Demeter and her daughter Persephone. Evidence shows that they were worshipped here from the 7th century BC before the foundation of the city and worship of they continued for over 300 years.
We then returned to the car park and set off for the more popular eastern end of the site. We hardly saw anyone in the western section and there were more people in the eastern part but we could hardly call it crowded. We started with paleo-Christian and later Christian burials and then climbed up to the ridge and the most complete temple of Akragas. The late 6th century BC 'Temple of Concordia' (probably dedicated to the Discouri) is beautifully preserved mainly due to its conversion to a Christian church in the 6th century AD and the subsequent reversal of this process in the late 18th century. It is beautifully proportioned and looks magnificent perched on the ridge.
We walked on up the ridge over the area that had been quarried by the Romans who then created tombs out of the remaining rock. We then reach the highest of the buildings, the Temple of Hera with its huge altar.
Only priests and acolytes were allowed in the temple and the devotees to Hera performed their rituals at the altar. They had to be pure in body and mind and they brought with them offerings of food, flowers and, Hera's favourite, a white cow. Water was sprinkled over the cow and the worshippers, prayers said by the priest and then the cow was sacrificed. The animal was then roasted and shared amongst the priests and worshippers, so at least it wasn't a complete waste.
We walked back down the ridge, viewing the late 6th century BC Temple of Hercules before leaving the site and heading for the museum, about 10 minutes walk up hill towards the modern town.
The museum was very good and quite extensive, giving lots of background information (in English) on the site and the city of Akragas. There were also a large amount of exquisite painted pottery known as Gela ware from the nearby Sicilian city of that name.
As the sun started to set, we made our way back to the car park and waited for our bus. The twenty minute wait seemed a long time and we were glad to get back to Henrietta and put our feet up!
Photos: A huge Telamon reclines in the the Temple of Olympian Zeus; The Roman tombs on the ridge with the Hera temple in the background; The Hera Temple view from the large altar; The Temple of Concordia showing the arches cut in the cella when the temple was converted to a church; An intriguing ritual tube with ears and hair – it is thought that it represented a divinity and was sunk partly in the earth to enable communication with the underworld.

Thursday 29th October 2009 – Agrigento, Sicily, Italy

After saying goodbye to the English family, we left the most comfortable, prettiest and cleanest site that we have stayed at in Sicily and probably in the whole of Italy. Definitely one to visit again in we are in the area.
Punta Braccetto is an oasis in a sea of plastic. The area produces a huge amount of vegetables and specialises in tomatoes and particularly cherry tomatoes. Next time that you buy out-of-season cherry tomatoes in your local supermarket, they may have come from here. Our route took us close to the sea all of the way to Gela and up to Lake Biviere we must have past thousands of acres of plastic greenhouses most with tomatoes in various phases from seedlings to productive plants. From the lake onwards, vines and olive trees replaced the plastic until we arrived at the ugly industrial side of Gela with many refineries and chemical plants.
The first part of the road heading inland from Gela towards Piazza Armerina was marked as 'picturesque' on the Michelin map but we felt that it became much more picturesque almost from the moment that the green line ran out on the map. We had been climbing gently since leaving the coast and the mountain scenery was very pleasant. A different type of agriculture dominated here, one that I had never seen before – cacti groves. We had seen prickly pears (the fruit of the cactus) for sale in the markets at a very reasonable €2 per kilogram. At least it seems a reasonable price compared to other fruit and vegetables but I have never tasted one and have no idea of how they are prepared or cooked, if indeed they are not eaten raw (without the spikes I presume). Another thing to look up on the Internet.
And then I saw it – Etna. Without clouds and capped with snow it looked magnificent. I'm happy now!
We travelled to Piazza Armerina for one reason, the Villa Roman di Casale, 4 km outside the town. The 4th century AD villa is thought to be a hunting lodge of Roman Emperor Maximianus Heraclius. Amazingly it was in use up to the 12th century when it was covered in a mudslide. These two facts explain the preservation of the 12,000 square feet (no, that is not a misprint) of beautiful, high quality mosaics. As you can see from the photographs above, they really are fantastic. There is a huge amount of work going on at the site at the moment as walls are consolidated, mosaics repaired and new visitor walkways installed. This meant that substantial parts of the villa, especially the baths were closed off and parts of other mosaics were covered. The entrance fee was reduced to €3 and we were concerned that there would be little to see but this was not the case and it was well worth the visit. Hunting scenes and exotic animals were everywhere – lions, tigers, leopards, camels and many more; a huge scene showed a Roman circus (an oblong race track) with a chariot race in progress; oxen pulled loaded carts; the Great Hunting Scene coved the floor of a corridor running the entire width of the huge complex. I cannot stress enough how amazing the mosaics are and we didn't see them all. We got occasional glimpses of beautiful mosaics in the closed-off areas. My photographs don't do them justice and bright sun meant that many mosaics were a mixture of very bright and heavy shadow. This made it impossible to take good photographs. I definitely want to return once the work has been completed but it will have to be on a bright but overcast day so that there aren't any shadows!
We passed one castle on the way up but on the journey back to the coast at Agrigento we past more. This is a very fertile area, producing a huge amount of wheat but at this time of the year most of the fields were freshly ploughed. Again it was very attractive scenery and made for a very pleasant drive.
On route, we also found a huge Carrefour hypermarket and we able to stock up with provisions for the next few days. We arrived at the Valle dei Templi campsite just as dusk fell – the name of the site might give you a clue as to what we are going to see tomorrow!
Photos: Part of the 'small' hunting scene – it was very large!; Wonderful detail in the face of an Amazon (?); Two of the famous ten bikini-clad girls; A collage of other small mosaics; A view from the road between Casale and Agrigento.

Wednesday 28th October 2009 – Punta Braccetto, Sicily, Italy

Another day of relaxation – I could get used to this. Lots more reading, chatting with the other English family on the site and a short walk to the bakers and mini market, inevitably called 'Maxi Market'. The campsite is very nearly full with many Germans who are well established and are probably going to spend the Winter here. The site really very good, flowers line all of the pitches, the private toilet facilities, showers, washing-up and clothes washing areas are immaculate and the beach is clean and offers excellent swimming. Two bakers arrive every morning to sell break, panettone and other goodies, a fruit and vegetable van comes later and this morning we had a man selling fish. I can understand why people choose this site for a long stay. Having said that, there is not a lot to see in the area and although most people have bikes and the area is relatively flat, I think that I would soon get bored. The most popular pastime is laying on the beach and that wouldn't suit us.
We have decided to move on tomorrow but have thoroughly enjoyed our stay here and would certainly return to this site next time we visit Sicily.
Photos: Sunset over Torre Vigliena as seen from the campsite beach.

Tuesday 27th October 2009 – Punta Braccetto, Sicily, Italy

A day of relaxation in the warm sun with clothes washing and reading the the order of the day. Later in the afternoon we went for a walk along the beach and out to the headland where the ruins of the 18th century Torre Vigliena fortress are to be found. We think that the ruins were a customs post used to check for pirates and smugglers, both of which were common at that time. It must be said that they look more impressive from a distance than they do close up but it was a pleasant walk.
Photos: Punta Braccetto from Torre Vigliena.