After yesterday's visit to the best known mosaics in the Roman world, today we are going to visit probably the best collection of Greek temples in the world. The day started warm and sunny and it was positively hot sat in the direct sun over breakfast. Ideal weather for exploring the large site.
Akragas (Agrigentum to the Romans) was established in 582 BC and was named after the river next to it, the Akragas meaning 'rich in crabs' in Greek. It was chosen for its defensive position, bordered by two rivers that merge before the nearby coast and protected by two hills. It was ruled by a series of tyrants and soon became very wealthy, stating its power by the construction of a massive, 12 km long defensive wall that surrounded the city and included a long ridge to the south. This ridge is now known as 'Collina dei Templi' ('Hill of the Temples').
Catching the bus from outside the campsite we got off at the car park on the road that splits the site in two. We started at the western end, which the guidebook explained was the quietest part mainly because the temples are less complete. The first temple that we came to was a temple to Olympian Zeus, built in the 5th century BC and the largest Doric temple in the western Greek world, occupying an area slightly less than a football field and with foundations 6 metres deep. The temple lies in ruins with what remains of the columns and stone blocks lying in huge heaps. This is due to a combination of damage in ancient times, including enemy attacks and earthquakes and the inevitable use of the site as a quarry. In the middle ages it was know as 'cava gigantum' ('giant quarry') but most of the remains were removed for use in the construction of Port Empedode in the middle of the 18th century. The temple was over 30 metres tall and many 'Telamons', giant human figures helped to support the roof. The Telamons were 7.6 metres tall and are thought to have been placed at a height of 13 metres between the full height pillars, although there is much speculation around their exact position. One complete Telamon still exists in the museum and a cast copy has been left on the site where it was found – a very impressive sight. In front of the temple is its altar where the simultaneous sacrifice of 100 bulls was carried out.
The next site was the late 5th century BC 'Temple dei Dioscuri' (the Dioscuri being Castor and Pollux) with its well-meaning but misguided reconstruction of a few pillars. This was done in 1832 by assembling a random collection of bits that were lying around, all of different ages and architectural styles. This temple was built in an area that was a large and important centre for the cult of Demeter and her daughter Persephone. Evidence shows that they were worshipped here from the 7th century BC before the foundation of the city and worship of they continued for over 300 years.
We then returned to the car park and set off for the more popular eastern end of the site. We hardly saw anyone in the western section and there were more people in the eastern part but we could hardly call it crowded. We started with paleo-Christian and later Christian burials and then climbed up to the ridge and the most complete temple of Akragas. The late 6th century BC 'Temple of Concordia' (probably dedicated to the Discouri) is beautifully preserved mainly due to its conversion to a Christian church in the 6th century AD and the subsequent reversal of this process in the late 18th century. It is beautifully proportioned and looks magnificent perched on the ridge.
We walked on up the ridge over the area that had been quarried by the Romans who then created tombs out of the remaining rock. We then reach the highest of the buildings, the Temple of Hera with its huge altar.
Only priests and acolytes were allowed in the temple and the devotees to Hera performed their rituals at the altar. They had to be pure in body and mind and they brought with them offerings of food, flowers and, Hera's favourite, a white cow. Water was sprinkled over the cow and the worshippers, prayers said by the priest and then the cow was sacrificed. The animal was then roasted and shared amongst the priests and worshippers, so at least it wasn't a complete waste.
We walked back down the ridge, viewing the late 6th century BC Temple of Hercules before leaving the site and heading for the museum, about 10 minutes walk up hill towards the modern town.
The museum was very good and quite extensive, giving lots of background information (in English) on the site and the city of Akragas. There were also a large amount of exquisite painted pottery known as Gela ware from the nearby Sicilian city of that name.
As the sun started to set, we made our way back to the car park and waited for our bus. The twenty minute wait seemed a long time and we were glad to get back to Henrietta and put our feet up!
Photos: A huge Telamon reclines in the the Temple of Olympian Zeus; The Roman tombs on the ridge with the Hera temple in the background; The Hera Temple view from the large altar; The Temple of Concordia showing the arches cut in the cella when the temple was converted to a church; An intriguing ritual tube with ears and hair – it is thought that it represented a divinity and was sunk partly in the earth to enable communication with the underworld.
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