We wanted to see more of the Truli and took the recommendation of the campsite owner to take the minor road to Martina Tranca and from there to Locorotondo and Fusano. We saw hundreds of Tuli dwellings on this route and it was clear that they were extremely common over a very large area. Many were still in use as farm outbuildings, farmhouses and normal houses with little evidence of the holiday homes that were common in Alberobello.
We continued north to the coast at Savelletri and the archaeological site of Egnazia – yes, yet another pre-Greek / Greek / Roman and, this time, mediaeval site. The were a number of interesting parts of this site. The 4th century BC underground chamber tombs with stone steps leading down to large doors that protected the entrance to a large underground chamber tomb, often consisting of more than one room and with painted plaster walls. These were reminiscent of, but not as elaborate as, the Mycenaean chamber tombs. There was also an intact 'cryptoporticus', an intriguing underground structure. Imagine a cloister dug out of the ground but with the central courtyard left unexcavated. This leaves you with four long, wide corridors forming a square and these corridors where then covered with a barrel vault that was at ground level. We saw a smaller example of a cryptoporticus at Velia (see 3rd April 2008) and this was below a building thought to have been used for cult worship. The information board at Egnazia simply said that it had been used for a number of purposes including a public warehouse for food storage. I assume that, as the building was underground, it would have cool and therefore helped to preserve the food. The other interesting area was the coastline close to the Acropolis where tombs had been dug into the rock on the shoreline. Libation pits were also in evidence with the circular depressions connected to tombs by channels. Some of these tombs have subsequently been covered, which gave an interesting appearance, a cross between a cemetery and rock pools. Jane was very impressed by the sign on the site that stated “'Snake-A-Way' repellent treated area to get away snakes. Nevertheless, pay attention”. Jane paid a lot of attention and wondered whether she could buy some 'Snake-A-Way' for future use.
We then turned inland to follow a straight-as-a-die (must be Roman?) road to the outskirts of Lecce where we found our campsite 'Nameste' that is also an organic farm. With a vocal campsite dog, three more with campers nearby, a free-roaming cockerel with harem (no eggs available – “too cold”), a little owl hooting as it hunted around us and with a shiny railway track running, slightly elevated, right next to the site, prospects of a good night's sleep did not seem good.
Photos: A country Truli house with a vineyard in front – the painted symbols are traditional and have Christian, pagan or magical meanings. Unfortunately, this symbol was not in our guide, so I can't tell you what it means; One of my favourite of all of the Truli that we saw – a genuine rural Truli complex with steps up to the roof and access to the cistern outside the door. This shows how little light would be let in, so the walls of the rooms were painted white to help but it must have been still have been very dim. Sewing and knitting was done sat on the seats outside as it was too dark inside; Inside the cryptoporticus at Egnazia; The rock-cut tombs on the shoreline below the acropolis at Egnazia.
We continued north to the coast at Savelletri and the archaeological site of Egnazia – yes, yet another pre-Greek / Greek / Roman and, this time, mediaeval site. The were a number of interesting parts of this site. The 4th century BC underground chamber tombs with stone steps leading down to large doors that protected the entrance to a large underground chamber tomb, often consisting of more than one room and with painted plaster walls. These were reminiscent of, but not as elaborate as, the Mycenaean chamber tombs. There was also an intact 'cryptoporticus', an intriguing underground structure. Imagine a cloister dug out of the ground but with the central courtyard left unexcavated. This leaves you with four long, wide corridors forming a square and these corridors where then covered with a barrel vault that was at ground level. We saw a smaller example of a cryptoporticus at Velia (see 3rd April 2008) and this was below a building thought to have been used for cult worship. The information board at Egnazia simply said that it had been used for a number of purposes including a public warehouse for food storage. I assume that, as the building was underground, it would have cool and therefore helped to preserve the food. The other interesting area was the coastline close to the Acropolis where tombs had been dug into the rock on the shoreline. Libation pits were also in evidence with the circular depressions connected to tombs by channels. Some of these tombs have subsequently been covered, which gave an interesting appearance, a cross between a cemetery and rock pools. Jane was very impressed by the sign on the site that stated “'Snake-A-Way' repellent treated area to get away snakes. Nevertheless, pay attention”. Jane paid a lot of attention and wondered whether she could buy some 'Snake-A-Way' for future use.
We then turned inland to follow a straight-as-a-die (must be Roman?) road to the outskirts of Lecce where we found our campsite 'Nameste' that is also an organic farm. With a vocal campsite dog, three more with campers nearby, a free-roaming cockerel with harem (no eggs available – “too cold”), a little owl hooting as it hunted around us and with a shiny railway track running, slightly elevated, right next to the site, prospects of a good night's sleep did not seem good.
Photos: A country Truli house with a vineyard in front – the painted symbols are traditional and have Christian, pagan or magical meanings. Unfortunately, this symbol was not in our guide, so I can't tell you what it means; One of my favourite of all of the Truli that we saw – a genuine rural Truli complex with steps up to the roof and access to the cistern outside the door. This shows how little light would be let in, so the walls of the rooms were painted white to help but it must have been still have been very dim. Sewing and knitting was done sat on the seats outside as it was too dark inside; Inside the cryptoporticus at Egnazia; The rock-cut tombs on the shoreline below the acropolis at Egnazia.
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