Even though we are very interested in archaeology, we have nearly had enough of Greek / Roman sites and museums. However the museum and Metaponto was recommended and so we thought that we should pay it a quick visit. It was very good, although there were no English translations and its highlights were some exquisitely painted pottery and beautiful jewellery, including a gold earring depicting a tiny Eros(?) sat on a dolphin carved from garnet(?). We then called in at the nearby site to find that it was officially closed but a woman who worked at the museum was there taking photographs and allowed us in. She was very enthusiastic, talkative and helpful and passed on website and email details for us to obtain further information. The first thing that I noticed when we parked the motorhome was a viewing platform. I have been saying for many years that many archaeological sites should have these as it makes interpretation of the site so much easier. This one was a large, purpose-built erection and would have comfortably held a coach load of people allowing a guide to point out the layout of the site. Having said all of that, other sites would benefit much more from a viewing platform than this one did. They also had a good two large notice boards showing a plan of the site and, most useful (and unusual) interpretations of the likely appearance of the site at four different periods of its development.
We plotted a route to our next destination, Matera, via the Temple of Hera that was a couple of kilometres outside Metaponto. The temple has been reconstructed but looked very impressive in its position overlooking the valley of the river Bradano. Pythagoras was said to have lived in Metaponto and, after he died, his house and school were said to have been incorporated into the temple. However the information board, in rather extraordinary English, suggested that this was not possible as the temple had already fallen into disuse before Pythagoras's time.
Matera is famous for its Sassi dwellings. Man has lived in cave dwellings in this area from Prehistoric times right up to the 1950's. Many of the houses visible today date back to mediaeval times and the way of living changed little over those years. Houses consisted of a cave entrance leading into a living room / kitchen / bedroom (often combined) with a stable down steps further into the hillside and a cellar and store down a further fight of steps. In this way, the warmth generated by the animals provided heat for the house in the cold months. Families with many children lived in the houses with the children sharing their parent's bed. The houses were evacuated
in the mid 1950's due to the health problems associated with cramped living conditions, damp, poor sanitary arrangements and the close proximity of the animals. We visited a folk museum in one of the caves that gave an excellent illustration (with a commentary in English) of the way that the people lived. We were the only people in the museum until a large party of Japanese arrived – we left! We were also able to visit two Sassi churches and a convent that were intricately carved out of the hill and painted with frescoes.
We had planned to stay in a camperstop at the castle in Matera but found the car park closed. With difficulty, we established that the new camperstop was in the car park near the station in the centre of the town. Unfortunately, rather that the quiet surroundings of the castle area we were now going to be by the railway and with traffic close by. As it turned out, the railway ran under the car park out of hearing and the traffic noise was not too bad.
Photos: Beautifully painted Hydria from Metaponto depicting two women with Eros (2nd half of 4th century BC); Hera Temple at Metaponto with priestess (not Vestal Virgin) taking the traditional 3 hour Italian lunch break; Metera's Sassi dwellings including the Convent of Saint Anthony although the only way that you can spot it is by looking for the people in the middle of the picture; Sassi house with a view from the stable up towards the living quarters; A Lesser Kestrel (we think) – one of about 40 that were flying over the Sassi dwellings of Matera.
We plotted a route to our next destination, Matera, via the Temple of Hera that was a couple of kilometres outside Metaponto. The temple has been reconstructed but looked very impressive in its position overlooking the valley of the river Bradano. Pythagoras was said to have lived in Metaponto and, after he died, his house and school were said to have been incorporated into the temple. However the information board, in rather extraordinary English, suggested that this was not possible as the temple had already fallen into disuse before Pythagoras's time.
Matera is famous for its Sassi dwellings. Man has lived in cave dwellings in this area from Prehistoric times right up to the 1950's. Many of the houses visible today date back to mediaeval times and the way of living changed little over those years. Houses consisted of a cave entrance leading into a living room / kitchen / bedroom (often combined) with a stable down steps further into the hillside and a cellar and store down a further fight of steps. In this way, the warmth generated by the animals provided heat for the house in the cold months. Families with many children lived in the houses with the children sharing their parent's bed. The houses were evacuated
in the mid 1950's due to the health problems associated with cramped living conditions, damp, poor sanitary arrangements and the close proximity of the animals. We visited a folk museum in one of the caves that gave an excellent illustration (with a commentary in English) of the way that the people lived. We were the only people in the museum until a large party of Japanese arrived – we left! We were also able to visit two Sassi churches and a convent that were intricately carved out of the hill and painted with frescoes.
We had planned to stay in a camperstop at the castle in Matera but found the car park closed. With difficulty, we established that the new camperstop was in the car park near the station in the centre of the town. Unfortunately, rather that the quiet surroundings of the castle area we were now going to be by the railway and with traffic close by. As it turned out, the railway ran under the car park out of hearing and the traffic noise was not too bad.
Photos: Beautifully painted Hydria from Metaponto depicting two women with Eros (2nd half of 4th century BC); Hera Temple at Metaponto with priestess (not Vestal Virgin) taking the traditional 3 hour Italian lunch break; Metera's Sassi dwellings including the Convent of Saint Anthony although the only way that you can spot it is by looking for the people in the middle of the picture; Sassi house with a view from the stable up towards the living quarters; A Lesser Kestrel (we think) – one of about 40 that were flying over the Sassi dwellings of Matera.
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