This area of Greece is full of archaeological sites and, like Heraion and Acrocorinth, we had not visited Sikyon before. It was only just off our route west along the northern coast of the Peloponnese and was clearly signposted until we were diverted. This led to a little confusion but we soon arrived at the village of Ancient Sikyon. We did some shopping here and I was very tempted when the butchers had both goat and hare for sale but I chickened out (apologies) and bought pork chops.
The Blue Guide said that the “excellent” museum was closed but it they have now finished the refurbishment, it is open again and it is still excellent. It is actually housed in the amazingly intact shell of the Roman bath buildings. Very little of the town has been excavated and there is much more to be uncovered but there is an archaic temple to Artemis or Apollo and an impressive Gymnasium part Greek and part Roman. I always think of the arch as being a Roman invention but in the partially excavated theatre (3rd century Greek, modified later by the Romans) has two vaulted passageways built in the 3rd century BC and using just the same building techniques as a Roman arch. This is apparently a rare example of early Greek vaulting.
After stopping for lunch under the shade of trees in the Sikyon site car park, we retraced our steps to the main coast road and headed for Diakofto. When we came to Greece three years ago on our European Odyssey, we hoped to walk down the Kalavrita to Diakofto railway, something that we had done many years before. Unfortunately, the railway had been badly affected by the horrendous fires in the Peloponnese the year before. Bridges and rolling stock had been damaged or destroyed and it had been decided to take the opportunity to refurbish the line and replace the rolling stock. This meant that the walking trail was also closed and nobody knew when it was likely to re-open. However it is open now and we were able to book a train from Diakofto to Kalavrita Tuesday morning at 08:45.
We drove back east for a few miles to our favourite campsite in Greece – Akrata Beach. We came here twice on our Odyssey, the first time Manolis, the owner told us that it was closed but insisted that we stayed without charge. The second time we came it was open and Manolis was as friendly as before. We met his wife Tula and his children Yiorgos and Cleo. Manolis and I had a competition skimming stones from the beach and we got to know two Californian ladies, Pat and Sandy, who were the only other motorhomers there. Manolis was overseeing the construction of a café and new sanitary blocks for the new season and Pat and Sandy were painting the gates, tables and chairs for him. We had a great time there and we were keen to see how the business was doing. The answer was very well – it was difficult to find a pitch! Manolis was able to find time to chat with us but it was obvious that he was going to be much busier this time!
Photos: The Roman Baths, now the museum, at Sikyon; The Sikyon two-level Gymnasium; The 3rd century BC vaulted entrance passageways in the theatre.
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