Today is the day for the walk that we have been looking forward to all of this holiday. We had walked this route many years ago and tried to repeat it on The Odyssey three years ago but found that the route was closed. It is part of the E4 trans-European walking trail but is most unusual as it follows a railway line.
The Diakofto to Kalavrita narrow gauge railway travels up through the Vouraikos Gorge using standard traction and, on the steep sections, cog traction. The journey is spectacular especially on the section from Diakofto to Zachlorou (also known as Mega Spileo, as it reasonable close to the famous monastery of the same name) where the track goes through the narrowest part of the gorge, travelling through many tunnels and over many bridges that cross and re-cross the fast-flowing river. There are no roads or tracks in this part of the gorge and the footpath faithfully follows the railway line through those tunnels and over the bridges.
We took the train up, admiring the lovely views of the gorge on the way and then walked down starting from Zachlorou. This walk is shown as taking three and a half hours but we it took us four and a half excluding our lunch stop. This was partly because we wanted to walk slowly to admire the views but also it was very hot and that slowed us down. I highly recommend this walk, the gradient is very easy and it is impossible to get lost but do wear stout walking boots as most of the walk is done on large, angular rail ballast. It is important to take a copy of the timetable with you so that you are aware when a train is likely to appear. Having said that, the train travels very slowly and even in the tunnels, that aren't very long, there are places to get out of the way.
We were never away from the roar of the river as it tumbled over rocks, down waterfalls and through torturous gullies eroded by the water over millennia. Meanwhile the towering walls of the gorge were always changing with limestone cliffs with caves giving way to conglomerate rock eroded into weird shapes by the wind and rain. At one point Jane spotted a Pine Marten that walked out on to the railway line and stayed there for some time before trotting off. One of the trains timed its approach as Jane was in the middle of a bridge causing her to race it to the other side – she won! The drivers always gave us a toot and a wave as we passed and, of course, we had to wave to the passengers too.
The photographs can't do it justice. If you get the chance, do it yourselves.
After all of the exertion, we decided to eat in the campsite taverna rather than cooking ourselves. We had a Greek Salad and wonderfully herby Soutzoukakia (meatballs) in a tomato sauce served with grated Kefalotiri cheese and a one and a half litre bottle of local red wine (no we didn't drink it all). The portions were very generous and the bill was a very reasonable €22. Manolis arrived at the end with glasses of Tsipouro, a Greek version of Schnapps, strong and warming!
Photos: Jane crosses a bridge whilst the river roars far below – the bridge in the background is no longer in use; Sometimes the railway came close to the river; The train crosses a bridge on a cog section; two other views.
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