Sunday, 8 September 2013

Thursday 5th September 2013 – Asprovalta, Greece

After paying the bill at Sykia (Fig Tree) Camping and saying our goodbyes, we headed off to Volos to the tyre repair place that the breakdown people had recommended. On the way I saw some metal showing through the road surface and the memories came flooding back. We had seen the old disused narrow-guage railway lines running out Volos and noted that a preserved railway was still running a little further down the road. However there was also a line that used to take the same route as the road. With the railway no longer in use and a need to create or widen the road, the solution was obvious – use the old trackbed. After all the ballast in the trackbed would provide a good foundation but removing those rails would have been a lot of work so it was much easier just to asphalt straight over the track and rails. All along that stretch, small sections of rail appeared through the surface and sometimes both rails were clearly visible for some distance. I should think that it would be quite interesting to hit one of those when you were on a bike – there is not much grip on a railway line!
We soon found the tyre shop to the west of the port and explained what was required – repair the puncture, put the repaired wheel back on the van and the spare back under the van. The latter I knew was going to be a pain in the neck (and the back and other places) but I guessed that that expression was probably beyond the man's English and it was definitely beyond my Greek so I just warned him that it was very difficult. He did complain that the person who designed the spare wheel storage and retrieval must have been mad but within half an hour (most of that getting the spare back) it was completed and I had paid the amazingly reasonable bill of €10 - £9!
Unusually we decided to use the motorway for the first part of our journey because the other roads were going to take us a lot longer. Greece has an unfortunate method of determining their tolls that uses height and doesn't make an exception for motorhomes. This means that motorhomes pay the same as a small lorry, nearly three times the cost for a car. We spent more than €22 (£20) between Volos and Thessaloniki and a considerable amount of that was single carriageway due to new road construction work.
We drove on normal roads to Larisa and as we approached the city I stopped at red lights and saw in my wing mirror an identical Hobby motorhome approaching in the outside lane. We rarely see any Hobby motorhomes in the UK and, although there are more on the continent, it is very rare to see our model. To my amazement, I noted that this one was Greek. We have never seen a Greek Hobby in all of our travels. The van pulled alongside us and the driver called across “Nice looking van you have there”. I repaid the complement and we exchanged details of destinations. They were off to Thessaloniki but I don't know whether that was for a holiday or if they were on their way home. Too quickly, the lights changed to green and we were off. It would have been good to have more off a chat as we haven't met any Greek motorhomers who could speak English.
Before and after Larisa we covered more of the Thessaly Plain with distant views of mountains before climbing up and over the hills. There is another plain on the East side of Thessaloniki which is farmed extensively and has two lakes. We were able to leave the motorway here and take the old national road 2. We were expecting to see a mass of blue water as we approached Lake Koronia but saw only fields. Eventually we saw an area of white that looked like a very shallow salt lake surrounded by marshland. The lake was much smaller than that shown on our map and a large part of it seems to have dried up.
The second lake was blue and very pretty. On its shores there was the hot spring resort of Loutra Volvis – another time we must stop and investigate. Further east we watched a windsurfer speeding across the water. We could see the scar of the newly-constructed section of motorway on the other side of the lake and were glad that we had taken the old road.
We had a number of options for campsites on the route but chose the first at Asprovalta, appropriately named 'Camping Asprovalta'. We stayed here on our 14-month Odyssey six years ago and liked the site. It is right on the beach and the all of the vast number of pitches are huge but I had forgotten the two drawbacks – it is difficult to find pitches with a power supply (especially one that works) and there are huge number of mosquitoes. By the time we had selected a pitch and connected to a working electricity supply (with help from the neighbours), I could count 10 mosquito bites on my legs and arms. Still, a stroll on the beach made it all worthwhile and the locals on their semi-permanent pitches were all very friendly wishing us a 'Kali Spera' (good evening) as we passed.
Photos: Fish for tea? The beach at Camping Asprovalta.


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