Friday, 13 September 2013

Tuesday 10th September 2013 – Bogazkale, Turkey

We woke up feeling cold, something that we haven't felt for months. Getting up to make the tea I checked the outside temperature, it was under 2°C and the inside temperature was only 6°C. I put the heating on! It was 28°C during the day in Alexandropolis and now under 2°C – what a contrast.
We had long day of driving today but not as long or as frenetic as yesterday. Continuing south on the 750 we came across a large number of stalls on both sides of the road selling melons, many hundreds on each stall and of four of five different varieties. We soon came to the town of Kazan which we christened 'Melon City' and the locals obviously thought the same as, in pride of place, on a plinth in the centre of the town was a massive sculpture of a melon.
The stalls continued for a long distance after the town before we arrived at the motorway ring road around Ankara. I was expecting similar road conditions and driving to the Istanbul motorway but this was much more civilised and much quieter.
Heading east from Ankara we passed another melon growing area with many more stalls but the melons were smaller and not the same quality as Melon City.
By 15:00 we had arrived at our first destination, Alacahuyuk, a few miles north-east of Sungurlu. We had come to see evidence of the Hittites, a people who occupied this part of Turkey and many other lands during the period 2200 BC to 1183 BC and this was the first of three sites that we planned to visit.
Alacahuyuk, discovered in 1835 by the English explorer W. J. Hamilton, was first occupied in the Copper Age (5,500 – 3,000 BC) but most of the finds relate to the Hatti civilization, predecessors of the Hittites, who occupied the site in the Early Bronze Age (3,000 – 2,000 BC) and made it their capital. However the Hittites took over the site and left their marks such as the impressive 'Sphinx Door' at the southern gate of the city. The walled city is quite small and there is little above ground other than the walls of buildings. However, Alacahuyuk is famous for its rich Natti royal burials where the bodies were placed in tombs surrounded by rich grave goods and the skulls and leg bones of sacrificed animals. Very good reconstructions of the burials have been placed inside the excavated city, giving the visitor an idea of the wealth of the Hatti civilization. There is also a small but very good museum displaying some of the finds.
We drove on using country roads to our next destination – Bogazkale and Camping Asikoglu.
It is common in Turkey for campsites to be associated with a hotel and this is the case with Camping Asikoglu. We had a good meal in the traditionally furnished hotel restaurant and our host advised us how to visit Hattusa and Yazilikaya, the two local sites. He also told us to have as many apples as we wanted from the trees in the campsite - £10 a night and free apples, can't be bad!
Photos: Hatti royal burial with sun discs and sacrificed cattle heads; A Hittite teapot – tea drinking has been a tradition for thousands of years here!



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