Saturday, 10 October 2015

Thursday 8th October 2015 – Riaza, Spain

A gentle start and no hangover! We said our goodbyes to Larry and Lorraine and hope that they will be able to visit us when they are in England. Although they are based in Norfolk, Lorraine’s son is based in Taunton in our wonderful home county of Somerset, so we are on their route.
We had two archaeological sites on our list for today – Numancia and Clunia. Numancia (also known as Numantia), just north of Soria, appeared to be the more major site and was the first one that we came to. It was actually a small settlement on a hill but is famous because of a long siege that took place here. The small hill was an Iron Age hill fort and the capital of the Arevaci, a Celtiberian tribe. The Arevaci did not take kindly to Roman rule and between 153BC and 133BC they had a number of clashes including a failed Roman siege in 153 and the defeat of a force of 20,000 Romans in 137 – a very impressive feat given that Numancia only had a population of 4,000 to 8,000. In 134BC the Romans lost patience and the Senate instructed that Numancia should be destroyed. The Romans turned up with 30,000 troops, surrounded the town and built a 9 km fence enclose it. The Arevaci’s position was hopeless but they refused to surrender. After 13 months of siege the people decided to commit suicide rather than be sold into slavery and they set fire to the city. This is held in awe by the Spanish people and Numancian is used as a term to describe a brave, last ditch stand and it often used in a sports context.
Cleverly, tall white posts have been put in position in the countryside around the hill that mark the position of the Roman camps and the fence that they built. It helps to understand how desperate the situation was with the fence, two rivers between them and the Roman army who were always in view. After the defeat of the Arevaci, the Romans took over the town and rebuilt it so the remains visible today are all Roman although there is an excellent reconstruction of a Celtiberian house and a reconstructed section of Arevaci wall. The views from the site are extensive and it is easy to see why it was chosen.
We moved on to Cluny, another Arevaci hill fort taken over by the Romans in 75BC, although it is not absolutely certain that the Arevaci occupied this hill or one of the neighbouring hills. We expected this site to be smaller than Numancia but it was in fact considerably larger. A photographic reconstruction of the site in Roman times showed a huge number of densely packed houses that must have meant that there were many thousands living there. Having looked at the small museum and viewed part of the audio-visual (it was in Spanish and we were short of time), we drove on to the centre of the site. Here we were able to walk around a very large, high status villa with lovely mosaics, then the forum, temple and more houses. A longer walk took us to two bath complexes. We then stopped on the drive back to the theatre to take a very quick look at the theatre before leaving the site followed by the staff ready to lock up!
Next stop was our campsite at Riaza on the outskirts of that very pretty village.

Photos: Larry and Lorraine at Cascante; The reconstructed Celtiberian house at Numancia; The posh part of Roman Numancia with the background giving an indication of the views from the site; A group of people were flying a drone over the site in order to obtain footage for a forthcoming documentary; The reconstructed Arevaci defensive walls; The extensive villa at Cluny; and one of its mosaics; The forum of Cluny with the shops on the left.







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