I walked from the aire, over the bridge to the old town
through a thick mist that covered the town, meaning that we couldn’t even see
across the river from the van. In the five minutes that it took me to buy the
bread from the boulangerie and return to the bridge, the mist had lifted and
revealed lovely views down the river.
There is a major strike of fuel tanker drivers in France and there has been no
diesel available in any fuel stations and many of them were completely closed.
The range figure on the van information display showed that we would have
enough fuel to get us to Dunkirk but it would be good to get some more for
peace of mind. The situation in Northern France is worse than the rest of the
country because fuel in Belgium is 20 or 30 cents a litre more expensive than
in France. This means that many Belgians come over the border to buy their
fuel. This is especially the case in this area as it is a finger of land that
sticks into Belgium and we are only 6km from Belgium in every direction except due
south.
We set off west into Belgium and were soon able to find diesel at an unmanned
fuel station – common in France and Belgium. We drove for three hours through
Belgium before crossing back into France just before we arrived in Hondschoote,
just 3km from the border. The aire is on the edge of the town close to a very
attractive windmill.
This area of France has many ‘friteries’ (chip shops) and we really wanted to
have chips with mayonnaise, a very popular snack in Belgium, Holland and this
part of France. I knew that there was a friterie just down the road from the
aire but also knew that it was unlikely to be open on a Monday. However, we
were in luck and sat down to a fun meal with excellent chips and mayonnaise.
We walked into the town, which was much more interesting than we were expecting
and in many places photographs were displayed of the town in the late 19th
and early 20th centuries. There was also a very large windmill,
without the sails, which was being restored together with its outbuildings. The
old photos showed that it was close to a port but this had obviously been
filled in and houses built on the reclaimed land.
Photos: Givet just after the mist had cleared, with the Citadelle de Charlemont high above the town; Chips with mayonnaise – not quite the high class French food that we had been enjoying, but fun nonetheless; Some Hondshoote architecture; The Spinnewyn or Victory Mill site of a famous battle in 1793 when the Hanovarians, part of Anglo-Hanovarian coalition attempting to restore the French monarchy, were defeated and France was saved. I had never heard of it but you learn something new every day.
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