Wednesday 29th May 2024 – Camping Vjosa Explorer, Lixhat and Benjes Thermal Baths, Albania

 

We were still feeling delicate and didn’t want a long drive. Luckily, that fitted with our original plan as we wanted to visit the thermal baths near Permet, which were only an hour and a half away.
More lovely scenery as we moved south east to come to the Vjosa River, which is known as the Aoos in Greece where it rises. Here we came to the border crossing to Greece and, with the river, turned north west. The scenery up to now had been open with the mountains to one side but now the mountains started to move closer to the river forming a gorge. Suspension bridges, high above the river, connected the communities on either side. We turned off the main road following the signs to the baths and drove for 5 minutes until we came upon many cars parked on the road. We had originally intended to wild camp in the large car park a little further on but, given our condition, we wanted a campsite with toilets! Camping Vjosa Explorer is the closest campsite to the baths and we pitched up there. The campsites here are fairly new and basic but this one is pleasant with good toilets, showers and Internet connection. One thing that it didn’t have was fresh drinking water but we suspect that they have plans to install this soon.
I always think of thermal baths as places with posh buildings and wealthy, overweight people trying to find a cure for obesity – it always amuses me that people think that standing in warm water is going to cure anything. However, these thermal baths are quite different. We walked next to a river that looked like boiling mud and reached a wonderfully graceful arch that bridged the river and lead to the baths. Open to the elements and totally free, the lovely clear thermal waters filled a large pool, spilling over the edge and making its way into the river. Many people, including families were enjoying the waters that were the temperature of a bath at home.
From here it is also possible to walk up the narrow gorge and I would have loved to do so but in my delicate state I decided that it wouldn’t be advisable.
Photos: A view on the journey; Camping Vjosa Explorer; Martin walks over the elegant bridge at the springs – a small thermal pool can been seen through the arch; The main thermal bath.