Saturday 5th July 2008

We had intended to extend our stay by one more day to visit Veliko Turnovo but we had learned some interesting news last night. Today there is a Folk Song Festival at the monastery with over 30 groups taking part. This explained the groups of women and the singing and dancing last night. We decided to extend our stay for two nights so that we could see the Festival and go to Veliko Turnovo tomorrow.
The singing started at 10:00 and went on to 14:00 with each group performing three songs. Most of the groups wore beautiful traditional costumes and performed old traditional songs. The resemblance to Greek traditional folk song was very strong although it is difficult to find this in Greece. The Turkish influence was also clear although, I suspect, neither country would be keen to accept this. Most of the groups were accompanied by an accordionist, with the occasional guitar but quite a few sang unaccompanied. Almost all of the singers were in their 60's with no sign of children or young adults. This does not bode well for maintaining the traditions but I must say that we have seen more impromptu traditional singing and dancing in Bulgaria than we have ever seen in any other country. Long may it continue!
In front of the stage (another 1876 monument), the singers who were not performing and other members of the audience would often dance to the music. The dances, also very similar to those in Greece, were stately circle dances with intricate small steps and the dancers linking hands. Occasionally faster dances would be performed by individuals but this was rare. In Greece these are often performed by men and the same may apply in Bulgaria but we only ever saw one man dancing and only a very few singing – this was very much a women's event.
When the festival had finished, I sought out one of the organisers. She only spoke a little English but I was able to explain that we had thoroughly enjoyed the event and that it was good to see the Bulgarian folk music traditions being encouraged. Ten minutes later she appeared at our table in the restaurant with two mugs as a gift from the Municipality of Drianovo. A very kind thought.
Having had another very good Bulgarian meal, we decided to take a short walk up a valley from the monastery. This turned out to be a popular area for locals to fish, sunbathe and paddle in the river but a memorial plaque and posters for a 10 year old boy reminded everyone that bathing, and I suspect diving, can be dangerous.
Although the dancers had all left, the campsite was full again, this time with families who had come for the weekend.
Jane made a momentous discovery today – the Bulgarians have an equivalent to Ouzo. It is also an aniseed-based liqueur called Mastika and, like ouzo, it can be mixed with water. I suspect that it will be on our next shopping list!
Photos: These singers stayed at our campsite – I am not sure about the plastic flowers on either side of the head!; This group were very good and much appreciated by the audience, many of whom were also dancing; Singers dancing; This singer was also an actress and we can only assume that the song was about an incompetent cook!; The valley near the monastery – the river joined another and then flowed past the campsite.