Wednesday 2nd July 2008

When we turned off to the campsite, we noticed that a monastery and cave were signposted down the same road, so we decided to investigate. The monastery was actually very close but hidden by the trees. The gorge in which the monastery and campsite are located is very pretty with huge vertical cliffs and a small river running on its floor. The date of 1876 came up again and we discovered from the history museum that the monastery was both a source and hideout for Bulgarian rebels during the war. Russian soldiers were also accommodated in the area and the monastery ran a hospital for the Russian casualties. To our surprise the history museum also had a small archaeological section covering everything from the Prehistoric to the Mediaeval. Apart from the church, it was not possible to see inside any of the monastery buildings but the views of the buildings in their beautiful setting was enough. We had lunch in a restaurant in the grounds and it was very good value for money – two soft drinks, a large salad and a sausage and bean casserole for 16 leva (£7) including a tip.
We returned to the van to change into something more appropriate for a spot of caving and set off on the short walk beyond the monastery to the Bacho Kiro Cave. The entrance fee was ridiculously cheap at 2 leva (less than £1) for the short tour (25 mins) or 3 leva for the long tour (1 hour). I asked for the long tour but unfortunately it wasn't available and I suspect that it never is. We were allowed to enter without a guide – it appeared that the Bulgarians had a guided tour but as they didn't speak a word of English, we were able to do our own thing. The area of the cave open for the short tour was actually very small but it was good to be able to take it at our own pace. Not worth a big diversion to see it but fun given that it was on our doorstep.
In the evening we were treated to some impromptu traditional Bulgarian dancing by a group of people staying in a couple of the cabins. I think that a certain amount of alcohol had helped to lubricate their limbs and it was good to see Bulgarians smiling and enjoying themselves. I know that it is a generalisation, but Bulgarians are not a naturally smiling race.
Photos: Drianovo Monastery; Ghosts of Prehistoric Man in the Bacho Kiro Caves.