Sunday 8th November 2009 - Finale di Polina, Sicily, Italy

The morning was spent relaxing and hoping that it wouldn't rain so that the wet clothes and shoes would finish drying. It was windy and, at 16°C, quite warm so the clothes did dry although the wind made it feel quite cool and we decided to have lunch in the van. Just after two o'clock we walked into the village ready for the three o'clock start of the folk groups in the 23rd Finale Olive Festival. We were early and decided to have another walk around the town and inspect the stone town built in 1500. There is a pleasant esplanade build around the tower with plenty of benches, even if they do face the town rather than the beautiful view over the sea.
Just before 15:00 we returned to the square in the main square where the action was scheduled to take place. It looked the same as when we had passed it earlier – no crowds, just a few people milling about preparing stalls. I tackled someone (metaphorically only) and asked them about the folk groups. It transpired that the 15:00 start was more like 15:00 to 15:30 and it was a procession that started from the church. We hadn't found the church so we went in search and soon found it set back inland from the main street. This area looked even more dead than the square so we wandered off towards the sea for a while. When we returned, we found the only bench empty and occupied it to watch the inaction. It was a fascinating occupation watching the municipal police trying to look important and moving the occasional vehicle on when it tried to park in the wrong place. This sounds as if things were happening but for the first half hour, nothing did. The important and very pleasant man who we christened 'The Mayor' was there with his camera and seemed to know or be related to everyone who passed. There were many greetings and much kissing, except by the police as it is obviously not correct to kiss people when you are in uniform. Eventually, cars arrived with people dressed in traditional outfits and they were directed to an area behind the church.
The Greeks occupied Southern Italy and Sicily for many years and their genes obviously still permeate the local population. The 15:00 was definitely Greek time as we know it, as the procession didn't form until after 16:00. There were three folk groups from the local area though none were from Finale itself. The first had an excellent band playing in front of them but didn't seem to dance. The reason for this became apparent as 10 minutes into the procession a large number of people joined them – they had arrived even later than all the others. They then performed the most complex of dances and together with the excellent music, they were most entertaining. The third group carried a maypole and performed intricate dances around it, winding the ribbons into complex patterns around the pole and then unwinding them perfectly. The second group were also very good performing traditional dances and singing traditional songs.
The procession followed a route inland from the main street and then on the seaward side before coming up the main street to the square. The procession was marked by frequent stops when one or more of the groups would perform a dance and / or sing at a suitable distance from the other groups. It was great fun watching them and watching the spectators, many of whom were extended family groups viewing from their front doors, balconies or windows.
In the main square the groups took in turns to perform although it was very difficult to see anything due to the crowds, so we walked to the bar opposite the tower and had a glass of wine. At 18:30, food was due to be served in the square but, given the timing of the procession, we didn't expect anything to be happening by then. We were wrong. When we arrived just after 18:30, eating was in full swing. The first stall we came to was offering their newly pressed olive oil with bread – it was very good. Then we were given a cup of red wine and a plate of bread, green olives and cheese – all local produce. There were 20 twenty very large, juicy olives that had been marinated in garlic and chillies and with the bread and lovely cheese it was very filling. Next came the pasta. Jane got her helping but I only got a few pieces before it ran out. I was told to wait for the next batch and I eat the little that I had been given. It was it a simple tomato and olive sauce and was very pleasant. Ten minutes later I received my freshly cooked portion, which was very hot, not only in temperature but also in spice. My mouth was positively tingling by the time that I finished it. All of this was totally free and delicious.
The 'Mayor' caught my eye as I was wandering around and insisted that I tried some of the bread and sun-dried tomatoes. It was lovely and I was now thoroughly stuffed. I decided to take some photographs of the pasta chefs at work and met the man who ran the fast food stall at the olive festival 'Da Nino Il Mago Del Panino'. He sold all sorts of food on his stall but the highlight was the stuffed suckling pig cooked in a wood-fired oven. Another possibility for my oven when it is completed although I will have to find out where I can get a suckling pig. We (the owner of the stall, not the pig) hit it off well and he gave me a glass of his Sicilian frizzante, a medium-sweet slightly-sparkling wine. It was very pleasant. I admired his van and was soon given a brochure from the firm that built his van, just in case I wanted to take one back to England.
The evening finished with me thanking the 'Mayor' for an excellent festival and we set off back to the campsite complete with a litre bottle of that lovely, freshly-pressed olive oil. It was just after 20:00 but felt more as if it was 23:00!
Photos: The Nazo Folk Group with their excellent band; I Terrazzani pose by the tower; Spectators at the festival; One of the musicians of 'Ballo Pantomima Della Cordella' with their maypole dancers in the background; The pasta chefs insisted on posing!; The suckling pig's hat needed adjusting – note how it matches its owners hat!