We had some heavy rain and strong winds during the night but
the blanket of low cloud had lifted by the morning. The views however were
still murky and so we set of west in search of Portugal’s Atlantic coast.
The N267 was a pretty road down from the mountains to the
plain with lovely views near Marmelete. We arrived at Aljezur, which looked
like an interesting town straddling a river and with a castle but we decided
not to stop. The Michelin map showed the road to the coast as scenic so we
decided to take it. At first, it was just more of the dry, scrubby land but
then we started to see views of the Cerca (or Aljezur) river and estuary. There
appeared to be a large area of paddy fields and I had read that an area further
up the coast provided much of Portugal’s rice. And then we reached the coast
with a new road heading north to the promontory at the mouth of the estuary.
The road had lots of parking places and picnic spots and large wooden
boardwalks that took us over the sand dunes to the cliffs from where we could
appreciate the majesty and power of the Atlantic. Massive rollers crashed into
the cliffs, the spray filled the air and a fisherman cast his line over the
cliff into the maelstrom below.
We had lunch overlooking the sea and then headed on to the
end of the road where we found magnificent views of the estuary. The tide was
coming in and we watched the water pouring inland, covering stretches of sand.
There is something hypnotic about watching waves, especially huge ones as they
break and foam before running up the beach.
We drove south along the road to Arrifana where we went
through the village and out to another promontory. Here we saw some of the best
coastal view that we have ever seen both looking north and south. Just below
the promontory is the Arrifana port but the fishing boats were being buffeted
by the sea as the waves broke over the harbour wall. Magnificent views and well
worth a visit.
I had found on the Internet the Serao campsite, just outside
Aljezur. We headed there and were greeted by a smiley and very helpful
receptionist who advised just where to pith so that we got the early morning
and late evening sun.
Photos: Early morning sun on the terraced fields just below
the Foia summit; The Cerca river and paddy fields (?) close to the sea; The
wild Atlantic close to our picnic spot – the top of the cliffs were covered in
broken shells where birds had bought their catches to break them on the exposed
rock; The Cerca estuary with the sea at high tide; From Arrifana looking north
alon g the coast; Looking south over the port of Arrifana.
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