In the Spring our good friends and neighbours, Geoff and
Carole, came to Portugal for a holiday and spent it on the Atlantic coast. They
walked parts of the Historical Way (GR11/E9) and the Fishermen’s Trail and very
kindly brought us back an excellent map and booklet on the Rota Vicentina
provided by the tourist office. The map showed a short walk, part of the
Fishermen’s Trail, that covered part of the coast here and I had chosen this
campsite because I had worked out that it was close to the walk. Talking to the
very helpful receptionist yesterday, it turned out that we could do the walk
straight from the campsite, turning the 6km walk from the book into a 10km
circular walk.
Turning right out of the campsite gate we were already on
the Historical Way and soon came to the fork where the southern leg of the
Fishermen’s trail joined. We walked on past that and took the northern leg some
1.5km further on. This took us directly towards the coast and the landscape
changed from scrub to forest although the first section had been recently
felled and brash covered the ground. Once in the wood, the plant and wildlife
became more interesting with fungi, wild flowers, aloe vera and mother-in-law’s
tongue. Although the sun was shining now there had been rain in the last couple
of days and large puddles sometimes stretched across the path. Every time that
we skirted one of the puddles, frogs jumped out of our path and into the water.
Soon we arrived above Carreagem beach and, although it was
initially hidden behind sand dunes, we could hear the roar of the breakers on
the sand. The vegetation changed again here with herbs and interesting bushes.
We arrived at the Alezur estuary and the Amoreira beach, opposite Espartal
where we were yesterday. The tide was lower and we sat on some rocks to picnic
watching the tide come in whilst families enjoyed the beach and braved the
waves. We had a coffee at the Paraiso do Mar restaurant with its wonderful view
over the sea and beach.
The walk back took us briefly along the road and then up
onto the higher land and we were soon back at the campsite.
Photos: The path over the sand dunes - the murk in the background is spray; A brave family on
Paraiso Beach; On the way back from Paraiso Beach.
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