Monday, 18 April 2022

Thursday 14th April 2022 – Neo Monastiri, Greece

 

We are heading north again towards Vergina but want to see the new archaeological museum at Larissa. There are no campsites in the area so we planned to wild camp again and consulted the park4night app to find a suitable stopping place.
The first part of the journey took us along the coast of the Gulf of Corinth past the result of serious forest fires and landslips that had taken away parts of the road. It didn’t cause us any trouble but we did think of those families desperately trying to stop the fires from reaching their houses. Fortunately, we didn’t see any houses that had been burnt but some had burnt trees in their gardens – a close shave!
Again this was a very pretty route and that continued as we turned inland to reach the E90 (or 3) road to Thivai (Thebes). Thebes also has a new museum but we will have to visit that another day. At Lavadia we turned north, still on the 3, through more interesting scenery, including the snow-covered peaks of the Parnassus mountain range. There were lots of signs on this road to archaeological sites but we had no time to investigate – a good reason to return to the area.
Continuing on the 3 we went through Lamia heading to Neo Monastiri where the 3 turns right heading for Larissa. It was a wild camping site in Neo Monastiri that I had chosen from Park4Night, partly due to the photo shown but also due to the mention of an archaeological site. The site was not marked on our very old Greek map that shows huge numbers of sites, so we were not expecting anything significant. When we reach the parking area up a narrow road, we were amazed. There were huge, ancient walls on the hill above. Having selected our pitch with a view down to the plain on one side and ancient site on the other, we walked up to investigate those walls. The path took us along by the walls to the far, village end of the site. Here there were seats and an information board that explained that the walls belonged to the Hellenistic period (4th – 3rd century BC).  The ancient town of Proerna started in the Bronze Age (3rd millennium BC) and was based on a mound below the Hellenistic acropolis that is now surrounded by the modern town of Neo Monastiri. This mound grew due to many centuries of occupation into what is referred to as a ‘tepsi’ or ‘tell’. A wall was built around the mound in the 5th century BC but when the new Hellenistic walls were built on the nearby hill south east of the town, most of the town’s activities were transferred into the new walled enclosure. The site is strewn with ancient pottery - pot handles and sherds of simply-decorated pots were everywhere.
When we got back to the van, the farmer was there looking after his herd of cows that were grazing the lush grass just below. I had an interesting chat with him, somewhat limited by my lack of anything more than a few random words of Greek and his total lack of English. We put the world to rights with words like Ukraine and Putin (with looks of horror and sorrow) and questions of where we were going next. Then his friend arrived and I decided that I should break out the wine. The friend couldn’t partake as he had heart problems but we wished each other health. I retired to the van to cook dinner and my new friends sat on the seat outside, watching over the cows and goats (with goatherd) and, no doubt, having more political discussions. I must say that that I was impressed when they mentioned ‘Johnson’ and indicated that he was a strong man. I am ashamed to say that I have no idea of the name of the Greek prime minister – time for a Google! We have seen Boris of the Greek TV a number of times and he is obviously considered a strong leader as far as Ukraine is concerned.

Photos: The snow-capped Parnassus Mountains; Our pitch at Proerna; Looking down to the fertile plain over the cows and bee hives – truly a land flowing with milk and honey; My two new Greek friends; We have been to many minor Greek archaeological sites where they had installed floodlights that had obviously fallen into disuse. There were floodlights at Proerna but we didn’t expect them to be used, especially this early in the season. When they came on, it was spectacular and there was a very appreciative audience of at least two people!






 

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