Wednesday, 11 November 2026

Tuesday 10th November – Bergues, France

 A longer drive today, mostly on motorways but they were relatively quiet and the driving was easy. On the way yesterday, we had spotted a Roman villa site close to the campsite and intended to drop in this morning to take a look. Unfortunately, the sat nav took us a slightly different route and we missed it – another time perhaps?
We stopped in a Belgian motorway rest area where about twenty police were gathered in a coned-off section. A little later, a lorry appeared escorted by a police car and it became apparent that they were carrying out checks on the vehicles. It seemed to take eight police to inspect the vehicle – it was a very detailed inspection from papers to the cab fire extinguishers and tyres. A large recycling (scrap) lorry obviously had a problem as he had to pull over – they had spent a long time checking and pointing at one of the tyres. It provided good entertainment over lunch.
We have stayed in the Bergues aire many times but we had read that they had made some serious improvements since we last visited 18 months ago. The aire used to be just a large area of packed soil that often flooded in parts. Now it is an organised aire with designated pitches in pairs with dividers between. There are spaces for over 30 vans but the ten or so vans all parked individually in the paired pitches, giving more space – a sensible idea at this time of the year. When it is busy, two vans parked in each section would be a little tight. In the centre of the aire are some picnic tables and wooden sun loungers. We weren’t about to use those as it was, very gently, raining when we arrived and had been for the last part of the journey. The only drawback to the aire is that, although it has a grey water dumping facility, there is no fresh water or toilet disposal option. We were very impressed by the new, improved aire and will definitely use it again.
We had tried to get to La Taverne Vauban restaurant on a number of occasions after we first spotted it on a walk around the interesting walled town. It looked interesting and the reviews were very good. We were often staying here on a Monday night and the restaurant is closed on Mondays. Last time, Jane phoned to book, only to be told that it was booked out for a private party. Jane succeeded in booking this time and we set off in the very fine drizzle. On the last couple of visits, they were renovating the centre of the town, improving the square, town hall and clock tower. They have done an excellent job and both the town hall and the clock tower were flood-lit and looked magnificent. The clock tower is a carillon that plays a really good tune prior to striking the hour. Carillon towers originated in the Low Countries (Belgium, Holland and northern France) and play a tune by striking bells with metal clappers.
We arrived at the restaurant at 7 o’clock and it gradually filled up completely – impressive for a wet Autumn Tuesday evening. It was clear why it was so popular, as the atmosphere was very pleasant and the food was excellent. I opted for La Trilogie du Nord, small portions of three traditional regional dishes – carbonade (beef stew made with beer), pot’jevleech (a cold jellied mix of rabbit, chicken and bacon) and Fillet de Poulet aux Maroilles (chicken breast in a Maroilles cheese sauce). I loved the idea of being able to try three different traditional dishes and they were absolutely delicious. Jane went for the full size Fillet de Poulet aux Maroilles.
We don’t normally have a second course but it was nearly the end of the holiday and we decided to go for a dessert. The menu described it as XXL Profiteroles, so we decided to have one between us. That was a good decision as neither of us would have been able to manage it our own.
The drizzle was a little heavier on the way back to the van and we were glad to have the umbrella for the 20 minute walk.
Photos: I think they stopped this lorry because its cab was too colourful!; The Bergues Clock Tower; And the Town Hall; La Trilogie du Nord; XXL Profiteroles.





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