Wednesday, 12 October 2011

Thursday 6th October - Stadtsteinach, Germany


Yesterday Jane spotted that the town square was to be closed from 07:00 this morning although we couldn't establish why. Thinking that it would probably be a market, we decided to investigate. We arrived to discover a very small funfair under construction – quite a disappointment! However that gave us the opportunity to start our walk a little earlier than anticipated.
There were two walks and two maps of the locality on large boards in the car park of the campsite and on the way into the town there was another board detailing a mill walk. This looked interesting but the complete walk, in a figure of eight, was very long so we opted for the bottom circle of the figure of eight. Packing a picnic and wet weather gear (it was warm but still grey and threatening) we set off. We climbed the hill of Hainberg (524 metres) behind the campsite and found a small ancient monument on the top. We had been getting withdrawal symptoms from lack of archaeology so it was good to find some. The walk then took us through the forest and a riot of fungi. In England it is quite unusual to see the pretty Fly Agaric fungi, also known as the Magic Mushroom, but we saw many hundreds on this walk. They look very pretty with a colour that can vary from a deep red-orange to almost a buff and every shade in between. There are often a number of them in a group in varying stages of development – an orange, white-speckled ball bursting through the forest floor to a fully open specimen often nibbled by slugs. Given that the mushrooms have an hallucinogenic effect on humans, I wonder whether it has the same effect on slugs? I took a look at at few but it is difficult to tell a spaced-out slug from an ordinary one! There were lots of other fungi including a lot of edible boletus mushrooms and there was evidence of discarded stalks from fungi hunters. These can command quite a high price and we have seen many for sale in greengrocers.
On the stretch on the walk from Having we caught a glimpse of the quarry through the trees. It was quite large but in a very confined valley and with very high, steep faces. It had the advantage of the quarry where I worked, Torr Works in Somerset, in that it is well hidden, making it much more acceptable to the local community. Having walked over another small rise, we descended to the river Steinach at Neumuhle (New Mill), well named due to the mill of the same name (it was new once). This, like many of the mills in the area, has become a guest house and restaurant. It was interesting to see that the mill had been converted to small-scale electricity generation, something that I have always been surprised is not done more often with watermills that are not appropriate for restoration.
We found that we had joined a geology trail that had boards that appeared to tell the story of the earth's rock formation with some reference to the geology of the area. It appeared that we were walking in an ancient volcano and we soon came to a large volcanic rock outcrop, known as Steinachklamm, that diverted the river and towered high above it.
We had expected to follow the river on its gentle descent to Stadtsteinach but, as we left Steinachklamm we immediately climbed high above the river and continued for some time before we descended to river level again. A little later we came across another mill 'Waffenhammer' a hammer mill apparently used to produce weapons. There was a small drift mine entrance just by the mill and we passed another a little later in the walk that had a sign explaining that it was a former copper mine.
Ascending again we reached Burgruine Nordeck, ruins of a 16th century castle that defended the valley. If our translation is correct, there was a castle on the site from the year 1000 but this was destroyed in 1528 during some sort of peasants revolt.
After descending to the river again, we approached Stadtsteinach and came across our third mill. Schneidmuhle is a sawmill built in 1865 and restored in 1982 and it was good to see that the waterwheel was not only in position but was running.
We had only had a brief and very light shower earlier in the walk but it now started to rain and it looked as though it wasn't going to be a short shower. We increased our pace on the final leg to the campsite passing a large modern sawmill with that powerful and lovely smell of freshly sawn pine.
A little soggy after a most enjoyable walk of about 10 miles, we decided that today was the time to try some Bavarian cooking and the campsite restaurant was the best place as it didn't involve a long walk in the rain! We ordered two beers and discovered that we were drinking beer brewed in Stadtsteinach and very good it was too. We were handed that night's menu which consisted of a choice of four main courses and we set about attempting to translate them using a German-English dictionary. The only word that we could find was 'knuckle'. The waitress didn't speak any English but one of the other customers suggested that the last two dishes (including the 'knuckle') were “beef”. She also showed us her plate, at a distance, but that didn't help much as it just appeared to be a sea of white. She also told us that it was “quite hot” and we assumed that this wasn't the beef. So I had the 'knuckle' and Jane had the other one. Our Bavarian guidebook tells us that the traditional Bavarian food is heavy and is usually meat (lots of) and one veg. It also says that “meat” invariably means pork as the average German gets through 56 kg (123 lbs) of it every year! The book was quite correct. Jane's dish was indeed the same as the other lady's – two large slices of gammon and two large white semolina dumplings all set in a huge amount of white sauce so that the thick gammon was completely submerged. Mine was exactly the same except that the gammon slices were replaced by a huge gammon hock. I must say that the gammon was very nice and the sauce tasted good, if a little spicy and then I breathed out through by nose, which was suddenly on fire. I don't know how much mustard they put it the sauce but it would have kept us going for a year of roast beef Sunday dinners. Jane acquired a rosy complexion and beads of sweat were breaking out on my brow but I was not going to be defeated. The meal did require another large glass of beer on my part but I got there and enjoyed it in a masochistic kind of way. Oh, I nearly forgot to mention the little surprise – in the middle of the dumplings were some pieces of pork fat, like soggy pork crackling. We decided that, if we ate like that on a regular basis, our like expectancy would be dramatically reduced!
Photos: The ancient monument at Hainberg, which demonstrates a connection with Ireland as they obviously have 'Little People' here as well!; A selection of fungi from the walk – Fly Agaric top left, bracket fungus bottom left, and two types of boletus mushrooms on the right; A wonderful jester sculpture outside the Waffenhammer mill; Burgruine Nordeck.




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