Friday 18th January 2008

Relative to other Western European countries, Portugal is poor and this had been noticeable as we travelled over the last few days. However, in Porto this is much more obvious and contrast between the wealth of the Port lodges and parts of the city contrasts sharply with the shanty town appearance of much of the city, even right in the centre. We often passed run-down buildings that appeared to be derelict, only to see that a family was living in it.
Having had the bus ride through all those narrow streets yesterday, we ensured that we stuck to major roads when heading up the Duoro Valley. When we visited Northern Portugal many years ago, we did a day trip down to Porto but did not have time to see the Duoro Valley. We always said that we would see it next time that we came to Portugal and this was our opportunity. Our rather dour, cynical guide at the Vasconcellos Port lodge had asked what we were doing after Porto and, when we explained that we were going up the Duoro, she said that there was no point as we wouldn't see anything. In my usual optimistic way, I said that the sun might be shining tomorrow and she said “And I suppose that you believe in Father Christmas. Not even the kids believe in him now!”. Well, Father Christmas is real because the sun shone today – admittedly it was only sunny intervals but it didn't rain and the views were reasonably clear. And what views – especially when the road ran high above the valley. We meandered along this road and ended up at the most important pilgrimage centre in Portugal – Lamego.
There were no open campsites in the area but the Camperstop Europe book advised us that we could stop overnight in the large car park at the foot of the steps to the pilgrimage church, so this is what we did. This was right in the centre of the town and this meant that we were able to explore the town after we arrived. The very helpful lady in the tourist information office told us about the highlights of the town – the cathedral, churches and the views from the castle hill, and we spent a pleasant couple of hours exploring.
The circus was in town with performances on Saturday and Sunday. Unfortunately they were setting up at the other end of the car park that we were in and this involved lots of banging and crashing and very loud music being played. They also had a loudspeaker van that went round the town advertising the shows and this regularly returned to the fair around the car park perimeter road shouting out its incomprehensible message. We had visions of this continuing well into the night but, fortunately it had stopped by 22:00.
Photos: Bend in the river Douro at Meires; Douro view from picnic spot; The vine terraces in the designated Port area; Distressed door in Lamego old town; View from Lamego castle hill of Nossa Senhora dos Remedios and its 700 steps.