Monday 14th January 2008

It was a relatively calm night but with heavy showers. However, the showers eased after we woke and by the time that we were ready to leave, the sky was clearing. Due to the risk of rain (we could see it poring down on the other side of Santiago), we decided to catch the bus into the city centre. It was only a short walk to the bus stop and as we approach it we watched a bus drive past. It was another 30 minutes until the next one and the walk into the city takes 30 minutes, so we decided that we would rather walk than spend half an hour standing around. It was a very pleasant walk, all downhill and with plenty to see on the way.
The old centre of Santiago is quite compact and we were able to follow a tour of the main sights using the map provided by Camping As Cancelas. The highlight had to be the cathedral (Catedral del Apostol) and the photographs today all come from there. Mass started almost as soon as we entered but we were able to continue our visit whilst trying to keep out of the way and quiet! We saw the casket containing the remains of St. James brought back in AD 44 from Jerusalem in a stone boat and buried 17 km inland at Santiago. The grave was rediscovered by a hermit in 813 after he followed a guiding star. Call me a synic, and many of you will, but this reminds me of the story of the discovery of King Arthur's grave at Glastonbury – I don't believe that either. Anyway, the suspicious basis of the story didn't stop Santiago de Compostela becoming a major pilgrimage centre in the middle ages and it has continued to be so until the current day. We were shown how to hug the statue of St. James positioned above the main alter and we followed the tradition as do all of the pilgrims that walk, cycle or travel in comfort like us to Santiago.
One of the most impressive parts of the cathedral were the stone carvings on the Portico de la Gloria, the original 12th century entrance before a baroque facade was added in the 18th century. In addition to carvings of the apostles, there are a series of carvings of musicians and their instruments. These are fascinating and have been used to recreate instruments of the time. A group has formed that plays these reconstructed instruments.
The remainder of the day was spent shopping (Jane bought a lovely silver scallop shell necklace and I bought some Galician Celtic CDs) and wandering around the old centre. We once again took advantage of an excellent value 'menu' lunch at €10 for a 3-course meal with wine.
Now it is time to go to the local bar that advertises a WiFi facility where, hopefully, we will be able to post this blog and perhaps have a little drink or two.
Photos: Exterior of Santiago cathedral; Baroque Altar; Stone carvings of musicians on the Portico de la Gloria – note the hurdy-gurdy being played by two people; Tapestry in the cathedral museum – the representation of the back light from the fire is very good, note the light catching the edges of the clothes and the shadows cast on the floor.