To the Mani, the peninsula of stone and towers. We decided
to explore the Inner Manion a circular route, starting at Areopolis, moving
down the west coast and back up the east coast. The weather was ideal, with
wonderfully clear views.
Life in the Mani was hard with little water and a lack of fertile land. It
developed into a society of clans with regular disputes and vendettas. The
clans built towers to protect their land and the families lived in tower-like
houses, often with no windows at ground level and the main entrance on the
first floor, reached by a ladder or steps. We were lucky enough to stay in one
of these houses in Areopolis when we visited in the 1980s. Our room could only
be reached by a ladder from the floor below and that could be pulled up and a
heavy trapdoor closed to prevent access by enemies. The room was decorated with
weapons and photographs and paintings of ancestors dressed in traditional
clothes and armed to the teeth.
We drove to Vathia, a must-see village when visiting the Mani. It is a
fascinating village, set on a hill and full
of tower houses that were slowly abandoned from 1900 onwards. When we visited
in the 1980s, we only saw one occupied house. Now there are many more houses
that have been renovated and, I am sure, many are holiday rentals. However,
there are still plenty of abandoned buildings to investigate, some with
1950/60s bathrooms still in place and one ruin has a complete olive oil press
in position.
Last time, we went down to Cape Matapan, the southernmost tip of mainland
Europe, but this time we decided to continue our circumnavigation. Heading
north, we went up a very steep hill, first and second gear for a long way but
with fantastic views over Cape Matapan and the sea. We stopped at the small, high
village of Lagia with its many tower houses. The church in the main square is
over 200 years old and has exquisite frescoes. For a small village (57
permanent residents!), it must be a struggle to pay for the upkeep of the
church and there are appeals inside the building for donations from visitors.
The church is very welcoming, with soft Greek Orthodox chant playing over
loudspeakers creating a lovely, peaceful atmosphere. An information board in
English, told us that the church was built by the villagers who carried the
materials on their backs and shoulders. The main purpose was to unite the
village at a time of conflicts, disputes and vendettas between the families.
The church replaced the 30 small family chapels scattered throughout the
village and fields. I hope that it did bring the desired peace and
reconciliation.
We wandered around the village looking at the (mainly occupied) tower houses before
enjoying a coffee in the taverna opposite the church.
We continued north until we turned off the road towards Kotronos, following
another coastal route to Skoutari and then inland to reach the main road that
took us back to the campsite. We ate at the campsite restaurant – another good
meal before a rapid walk back to the van as the rain had arrived.
Photos: Vathia sat on its hill; A typical Vathia tower house; The olive press
in a ruined building; This house had electricity and running water by the time
that it was abandoned; View from Vathia; View of Cape Matapan; The church and a
tower house in Lagia; This is the sight on entering the Lagia church – unusually,
the entrance leads onto the balcony with the nave below; A typical old, private
chapel in the fields.
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